Tuesday, March 5, 2013

Garrett GT06 – GT0632SZ – 32 TRIM - 80 HP

This is currently the smallest Garrett turbocharger to date. This small frame turbocharger GT0632SZ recently came out and have only been available now since late 2012.

Being so small and tiny it still have the capability to produce peak horsepower 80 hp at around 300.000 rpm and is best suited for engines between 100cc to 500cc. It's a popular choice now even for mopeds, perfect for go-karts, ATV's, scooters because the GT06 will work well down to 25hp also.

Tiny Garrett GT06 Turbocharger VS Coca Cola Can
Tiny Garrett GT06 Turbocharger VS Coca Cola Can
We can see from these pictures just how tiny the GT06 Turbocharger really is in comparison to a ordinary Coca Cola Can.

And also a picture showing how small the turbocharger compressor wheel is (32mm) with the compressor housing lifted off. Looking at the coins and the turbo compressor wheel you really start to see just how tiny this new Garrett Turbocharger is.

GT0632SZ Turbocharger Specifications

Model: 789997-1
CHRA: 800039-1

Bearing: Journal
Cooling: Oil

Tiny Garrett GT06 Turbocharger Compressor Wheel vs Coins
Tiny Garrett GT06 Turbocharger Compressor Wheel vs Coins
Compressor
Inducer: 22.63 mm
Exducer: 32 mm
Trim: 50
A/R 0.32

Turbine
Wheel: 30 mm
Trim: 72
A/R: 0.18
Wastegated

A reader have added the following:The inertia of the GT06 turbo rotor is 2.39e-06

The compressor map have also a very broad range and boost pressures can go up to 1.7 bar before this small turbocharger goes out of it's preferred work area.

Garrett GT06 Turbocharger Exhaust View
Garrett GT06 Turbocharger Exhaust View
Together with a good flowing engine there should not be any problem to get peak power at around 1 bar of boost pressure with this turbocharger.

Garrett GT06 Turbocharger Compressor Side View
Garrett GT06 Turbocharger Compressor Side View


GT0632SZ Turbine Flow 72 Trim 0.18 A/R
GT0632SZ Turbine Flow 72 Trim 0.18 A/R

GT0632SZ Compressor Map Flow 50 Trim 0.32 A/R
GT0632SZ Compressor Map Flow 50 Trim 0.32 A/R 32MM

Because the GT06 is so new not to many people have started using this turbocharger yet. Also due to reasons unknown there are also a lack of flanges for this turbo. Garrett have not updated it's catalog to include this turbocharger yet as of  (March 5, 2013)

Garrett GT1241 GT0632Z
Garrett GT1241 Specifications Flanges GT0632Z
It's not a standard T25 and the only bolt pattern I see similar to this is that of the older GT12 small turbo turbine outlet shown here. Until more people start using this turbocharger to turbo all kinds of mopeds, scooters, atv, lawn mowers... We will not know for sure.

The good thing is that the turbine wheel is cast from "Inconel" material for extreme applications, it's oil cooled and it comes complete with a wastegate included.




I also have more technical pages for you that will come in handy. They will be of great help when looking at compressor maps Use the conversion tools And you will be able to calculate airflow, pressure and HP figures for the turbocharger you are interested in.

28 comments:

Anonymous said...

Do you have information about the inertia of the turbine and compressor wheels (Gt06) ?

JD said...

Sorry no additional information about the turbo compressor wheel or turbine wheel as of this moment. Mostly because the small Garrett GT06 turbocharger is new to the turbocharger scene. I will update with more information as soon as I get any. Thanks.

Anonymous said...

Thanks man, would be really cool because i need this inertia value for detailed turbocharger simulation! Greetings

Saut Syafrudin said...

Dear all, any idea to use tiny turbocharger at small diesel engine, Kubota RD65, 376CC, 5.5HP at 2200 Rpm. i will use this small diesel engine for DC Diesel Generator with Variable Engine Speed. 1200 to 2200 Rpm. Thank You

Anonymous said...

I'm building a motorized bike with a Lifan 125cc 4-stroke engine and was wondering if I could use it on that engine?

JD said...

Hello, yes the 1 cylinder Lifan 125cc 4-stroke engines and similar sized bike engines like Honda, will spool up the Garrett GT06 Turbocharger. The higher you are able to rev the engine the better (+8000rpm). But to get the most of this small Garrett GT06 turbocharger on small engines you need to be able to tune the ignition timing as well as the fuel and have the right size and length (really short) turbo manifold to keep the exhaust gases spinning the turbo.

Small Diesel engines will have a hard time spooling the turbocharger if the rpm is so low (2000rpm). Also Diesel engines have cooler exhaust gases because Diesels are more efficient, and that hurts the ability to get the turbocharger to spool up and you won't get much performace from a really small low rpm turbocharged diesel engine.

Anonymous said...

Can dis turbocharger be used for a single clyinder 400cc petrol engine??????

JD said...

Hello, the Garrett GT0632Z turbocharger is small enough to be used on engines between 100cc to 500cc. If you have a really low power / low reving single cylinder engine (below 10hp) then you might have problems with it not spooling up good and building boost. But if this is a bike or ATV engine that makes some decent power, then you should not have any problems.

Anonymous said...

The inertia of the GT06 rotor is 2.39e-06

Levi Skuse said...

hey can i put this turbo on my stock 20hp briggs&stratton vanguard twin cylinder 570cc? would it hurt the engine to run it with stock pistons, connecting rods, and everything? basically can i put this small enough turbo charger on my lawnmower engine just the way it is, or would my engine only last 5 months before xploding or something please reply?

JD said...

Hello Levi, yes you would be able to run the GT06 turbocharger on your 570cc Briggs & Stratton Vanguard V-Twin. I would advice you to try and get the engine to rev a bit more than the max 3.300rpm to further help spool the GT06 turbo. And also if you don't have already, you would need to modify the carburetor so it would still work and supply the extra fuel needed with a turbo fitted. This is normally done by adding boost pressure from the turbo to the float bowl. And you also need to get oil pressure to the turbocharger from the engine with an oil line and also an oil return made. As far as the twin 570cc Vanguard engine is concerned, the stated Compression Ratio of 8.2:1 means you should not have any problems if you keep an eye on the boost pressure and not go much above 10 psi. That should give you around 30-35hp. You can go higher. But if so, you need to look at fitting either an intercooler or running methanol / water injection to keep the engine from detonating, Because the engine is a V-twin it really helps. But you need to make sure you take care of the engine and have good oil and the right fuel mixture, then it should last without problems. If something does break, it usually is either the connecting rods or the bearings that will fail first in these types of engines.
Hope this helps and good luck.

Levi Skuse said...

ok, thank you so much for the information,,,yes i know the the oil lubercation and every thing, i actually have a li'l oil pressure gage hooked up to the oil filter base were the little senser is and when i start it up cold start in 30 degree F temperature, with the throttle all the way low, it still reads past 100 psi then it will change normal once it warms up, i have 5w-30 in it... thank you so much for the help,,,, i do have a few more questions though, on the top of the carburetor on my engine, theres to little screws right next to each other with a little pipe sticking out below each screw, those are the fuel mixture adjustments but I'm not sure what way to turn them,,, its winter time over here, when i turn them should i turn them to were the rpms will go a lil higher and it will run smoother, or adjust it back to where the idle goes down a little bit and it runs a bit rougher,,, I'm so sorry for all these questions man,,, my engine model is 351777 if that helps.

Levi Skuse said...

maby is there like a way i could take a picture of the carb and show you or email it to you? because you can see the whole thing in the pic,?

Levi Skuse said...

never mind i found my model carb and everything thanks man.

Charles Edward said...

Would this be the ideal turbo for my 2014 Ninja EX300? Whats the ideal RPM range?

JD said...

Hello Charles, at the moment the Garret GT0632SZ turbocharger would be your best choice for your 300cc Kawasaki Ninja. With the right exhaust and setup it should pretty much give you power from 8000 rpm all the way to the redline. And around 50 hp if you run E85 fuel and 1 bar (14 psi) boost on this engine. If you can't run E85 fuel you need to drop the compression ratio and try fitting an intercooler to be able to turn up the boost without the risk of detonation.

dplecko said...

Very impressed with this little turbo, I have made a custom CNC billet A/R turbine housing for it.
http://www.post100.com.au/?page_id=105

JD said...

Hello Dave is it?

That is some impressive work you have done on the Postie bike and some nice machining on that custom turbine housing and fabrication work on the bike too. Congrats on 180 km/h with that Postie Bike Salt Lake Racer, I topped out my Honda Z50 at 80km/h turning around 12-13000rpm still on the stock 49cc ages ago. So it's nice to see people still pushing these types of engines to the limit. World’s Fastest Indian movie is one of my favorites, I wish you best of luck to brake that 125mph record!

yilson jose paredes araujo said...

hola este turbo le servira a una Bera 200 es de 13 hp

JD said...

Hello Jose, I don't know much about the Bera 200 but from what I can tell the Garrett GT06 will work on the Bera 200cc. It will start to make good power if you can rev it past 7-8000 rpm.

Unknown said...

What would br the case if I mounted this to a 1200 cc vtwin Harley motor.
Quick spool of would the capacity of the engine be restricted as the small porting of the turbo ow would it be on gate to much. Mabye a gt12 would be a better choice. Only drama is block is air cooler so no coolant available

Just looking at basicly near instant spool and most way thru out the ref range ( limiter set at 7500) not looking at high boost mabye 5 to 10 psi as stock block

Best regards
Brian

JD said...

Hi Brian, I say this small GT06 would definitely choke that 1200cc engine. Your Carburetor inlet is probably around 40mm stock and this GT06 turbo inducer is half that only 22.63mm.

It would spool up quick, but even the exhaust side would start to choke the top end power. And with only air cooling avaliable this turbo would also run hot just by being so small.

Like you said the GT12 would be a much better choice and even the GT15 would not be a bad pick either, might be a bit slower to spool but it would run cooler and you can keep the boost pressure down and still make the power.

Unknown said...

Hi JD, I'm about to order this turbocharger to be installed in a small one-cylinder, 650cc, diesel engine. The current engine power is 14 hp @3600rpm. Do you think this Turbo will work with this small engine at this rpm range?
Besides that, I would like to know if I could use the same oil system as the engine or if I need to plug a separate oil pump? In any case, what is the oil pressure I should be looking for? can you recommend an appropriate oil pump?
Thanks a lot for your help,
Alvaro M.

Unknown said...

Hi Guys! I'm currently trying to push my 799cc diesel smart fortwo past 80HP and mold like to know what you guys think. Should i go with this GT06 or GT12?

JD said...

Hi Alvaro, the GT06 turbocharger is probably your best option for a 650cc engine. But because it's a Diesel to help it spool up better I would recommend that you try and keep the exhaust going to the turbocharger as short as possible and also without bends. And also try and use a similar small size pipe diameter going to the turbo. This would help the turbocharger build boost faster on your Diesel engine.

You don't need a separate oil pump, this is a journal bearing turbocharger so you can run an oil line from your engine. Your oil line hose and fittings will act as an oil pressure restrictor in this case.

It's only the ball bearing turbochargers that you don't want to run too high oil pressure into because ball bearings don't need as much oil.

JD said...

Hi, for a 799cc Diesel engine if your goal is to go past 80hp then you might be better off with the Garrett GT12 turbocharger because 80hp is at the limits of what the GT06 turbocharger is able to flow. And for a Diesel engine you need even more air to get to the same HP level as a gasoline engine.

Unknown said...

Hello!

I would like to use the GT06 on a single cylinder engine which is build for Formula Student series. On the test bench I would like to use a separated oil system (not the engine's oil system) Could you tell me what is the minimum value of the oil flow rate? I need to know it to decide which pressure regulator valve is suitable for the system. Thank you!

JD said...

Hello, a journal bearing turbocharger like the GT06 need at a minimum 1.5 bar oil pressure. I would recommend 2 bar oil pressure to be on the safe side if the engine is going to be driven hard. Good luck with the build!

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Good books on Turbocharging and High Power Engine Tuning

Turbo: Real-World High-Performance Turbocharger Systems (S-A Design) Turbochargers HP49 (HP Books): Turbo Design, Sizing & Matching, Spark-Ignition & Diesel Engine Applications, Water Injection, Controls, Carburetion, Intercooling, ... Street & Race Cars, Boats, Motorc Maximum Boost: Designing, Testing, and Installing Turbocharger Systems (Engineering and Performance) Turbocharging Performance Handbook (Motorbooks Workshop) Street TurbochargingHP1488: Design, Fabrication, Installation, and Tuning of High-Performance Street Turbocharger Systems How to Select and Install Turbochargers Supercharging, Turbocharging and Nitrous Oxide Performance (Motorbooks Workshop) How To Supercharge & Turbocharge GM LS-Series Engines (SA Design) Turbochargers (Technical Description and Discussion) Motorcycle Turbocharging, Supercharging, & Nitrous Oxide: A Complete Guide to Forced Induction and its use on Modern Motorcycle Engines Smokey Yunick's Power Secrets Troubleshooting and Repair of Diesel Engines Engine Management: Advanced Tuning Four-Stroke Performance Tuning 3rd ed: A practical guide Two-Stroke Performance Tuning Dyno Testing and Tuning Forced Induction Performance Tuning A Practical Guide to Supercharging and Turbocharging Volkswagen Sport Tuning for Street and Competition: Getting the Best Performance from Your Water-Cooled Volkswagen (Engineering and Performance) Fuel Injection: Installation, Performance Tuning, Modification (Motorbooks International Powerpro) Engine Management: Optimizing Modern Fuel and Ignition Systems (Haynes High-Performance Tuning Series) Two-Stroke Performance Tuning in Theory and Practice Motorcycle Tuning for Performance Building & Tuning High-Performance Electronic Fuel Injection Modern Engine Tuning The Design and Tuning of Competition Engines How to Tune and Modify Engine Management Systems (Motorbooks Workshop) Engine Builder's Handbook Secrets of Speed: Today's Techniques for 4-Stroke Engine Blueprinting & Tuning (Speedpro) Street Rotary HP1549: How to Build Maximum Horsepower & Reliability into Mazda's 12a, 13b & Renesis Engines Xtreme Honda B-Series Engines HP1552: Dyno-Tested Performance Parts Combos, Supercharging, Turbocharging and NitrousOxide--Includes B16A1/2/3 (Civic, Del Sol), B17A (GSR), B18C (GSR), B18C How to Build High-Performance Chevy LS1/LS6 V-8s: Modifying and Tuning Gen III Engines for GM Cars & Pickups (S-A Design) The sports car engine,: Its tuning and modification Tuning Rover V-8 Engines: How to Get Best Performance for Road and Competition Use High-Performance Subaru Builder's Guide: Includes the Impreza, Legacy, Forester, Outback, WRX and STI (S-A Design) Honda/Acura Engine Performance John Lingenfelter on Modifying SB Chevy Engines How to Build, Modify & Power Tune Cylinder Heads Racing Engine Builder's Handbook: How to Build Winning Drag, Circle Track, Marine and Road RacingEngines High-Performance Diesel Builder's Guide (S-A Design) The SU Carburettor High-Performance Manual (Speedpro) Weber Carburetor Manual: Including Zenith, Stromberg and SU Carburetors (Haynes Manuals) Rebuilding and Tuning Fords Kent Crossflow Engine Weber Carburetors (HP Books 774) How to Build Max-Performance Mitsubishi 4G63t Engines (S-A Design) (Performance How-To) Stock Car Racing Engine TechnologyHP1506: Advanced Engine Theory and Design for All Levels of Circle Track Racing Building Honda K-Series Engine Performance (Cartech) Ford Tuning Secrets Revealed (Secrets Revealed series) Ford Sohc pinto & sierra cosworth dohc engines high - performance manual How to Build & Power Tune Weber & Dellorto DCOE & DHLA Carburettors (Speedpro) How to Rebuild and Modify Carter/Edelbrock Carburetors: Performance, Street, and Off-Road Applications Flathead Tuning Manual Hot Rod Horsepower Handbook (Motorbooks Workshop)

Folks don't forget about racing safety gear when buying auto racing parts

I have been tuning engines for a long time and with that experience I tend to look a bit more at how other people tune their cars and bikes than anyone else. Now this is not true for everyone, but most of you will recognize yourself at some level.

About 25 years ago the level of tuning an ordinary street car would ever see was at most 30% increase in power. (Not true for every car out there, but I'm talking ordinary street cars here)

So if you had an Ford, Volvo or BMW the amount of power you could get would have been in the 150hp range and in some extreme cases 250hp. At this point this was the "limit" of ordinary naturally aspirated engines at that time. Yes there was a lot of racing going on at that time, and some of these race engines did get put into street cars and power levels would have been 300+ hp. But the amount of maintenance these race engines required and the cost to keep them running were too much for most people.

Back then you could not just go into a racing store and buy yourself a set of forged pistons and connecting rods. Let alone camshafts and valves to build your race engine.

With the introduction of turbochargers however the power suddenly increased to levels that are still uncommon in today’s cars. At the beginning people where not really sure how to tune turbo engines and intercoolers where something that most people had never heard of. Silicone hoses where did you get that? And real drag tires where not that common either.

But as time passed by, engine tuners got their hands on more parts and knowledge and the tuning business took of.

Now it still took some time before engine management systems where you could really start to extract power out of engines became common. And if you found someone who could tune these you would have to fork out serious doe to get everything working.

Along came chip tuning and turbo engines. What was unheard of just 20 years ago would now become a reality for anyone with a few minutes of tuning. Some of you might know the story of the Ford RS Cosworth, Nissan Skyline, Audi S1 Quattro, Lancia S4 to name a few and other icons of the late 1980 and early 1990. The turbo engines back then would give you 200hp and that is still today 25 years on about the same power level you would get from a new car. However today this is a common power figure for a station wagon. And back in the 80s only a few racing breed turbo engines would give you that.

But with a few changes to the ECU with chip tuning and some larger fuel injectors all that was needed then was to turn up the boost pressure and 350hp where unleashed. The only real limit here was only how much air the standard turbocharger could supply.

Sure there where different levels of basic tuning you could do but the effect was the same, more power.

With more and more tuner friendly cars coming out over the years the power figures are still holding almost the same. But what have changed today is the huge amount of DIY tuners out there. What engine tuners did 25 years ago have now entered the garage and racing parts have now become widely available to anyone. From the cheap Chinese made turbo exhaust manifolds to wastegates and almost every tuning part you can think of to the pure racing parts like forged pistons and engine management systems on sale that anyone can buy.

So what has happened is anyone with a little background in mechanics can now build their own race engine. Power levels have just gone up and up and up.. It’s not uncommon to see street cars today with 500hp and then there are the ones who have gone even higher, breaking the 1000hp barrier.

The one thing that all these engines have in common to achieve such power levels are of course the turbocharger. Without the turbo it would not have been possible. Well I’m sure a supercharger could do the job too but that’s another story.

However time and time again people forget the most important parts when tuning cars. I’m talking about safety and racing safety gear. I do see that people buy racing seats and that’s good. But most of the time they don’t buy racing seats because of the added safety. It’s because they think racing seats look good. And what about things like auto racing helmets that keeps your head intact. Most of the time people come to the track without real racing helmets and if it’s street racing that’s taking place, no one seems to bother wearing any kind of racing helmets at all.

I do understand that people feel protected inside their car and they don’t think they need roll cages and in some cases opt for roll bars instead but you really need to think about this.

Some of the racing safety gear you should look at are the following:
racing suit
racing shoes
racing helmets
racing gloves

In case you don’t have a fuel cell in your car and there is a chance of fire or fuel leak then you should consider racing fire suits also because these will save your life. Fire is not to be taken lightly. If you have a good fuel system in place to feed your engine and anyone who are looking for power is going to have that. Then you need to understand that at any given time those racing fuel pumps are pumping 2 gallons of fuel every minute. And if you get a leak and have an accident you are in real trouble if the power to the pumps are not cut right away.

So having the right racing safety gear to protect you is always a good choice. Today’s car are much safer than the ones years ago, but you need to understand that when we double and triple the amount of power and turn our 100mph car into a 200mph fire spitting monster of a car you really, really should spend some time and pick out some racing safety gear also.