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Monday, February 7, 2011

Garrett GT20 - GT2056 – 55 TRIM - 260 HP

The Garrett GT2056 turbocharger is the biggest turbo in the GT20 family. With a 55 Trim compressor this turbo will give you 260 HP. Recommended for engines in the range 1400cc - 2000cc this is the turbo you can find under the bonet of many different cars. Also this is a popular turbo to turbocharge motorcycles with. Will work well for anyone looking for 140 - 260 HP and have good spoolup also.

Model: 751578-2
CHRA: 433289-234

Bearing: Journal
Cooling: Oil
Inducer: 41.5 mm
Exducer: 56.0 mm
Trim: 55
A/R 0.53

Wheel: 47.0 mm
Trim: 72
A/R: 0.46


If we have a look at the compressor map we can see that this turbo is capable to reach almost 300 HP. And if you need to you can push the GT2056 to over 2 Bar of boost pressure. But it wont give you any more air flow. So no more power.

The oil outlet thread is the same M6x1.0 that the other GT20 turbochargers use. But you get two options with oil inlet the ordinary M10x1.0 (F) or M14x1.5 (M)

But still the Garrett GT2056 turbo is not watercooled. It's not a big deal, but if you don't like to do cool down everytime you shut of you're engine. You might want to consider some other turbo.

Garrett GT2056 Turbo Compressor Wheel

Suitable for Garrett GT2056 Turbochargers 
Aluminum Alloy
41.55 mm / 56 mm
31 mm 
8.3-3.6 mm
5.083 mm

Garrett GT17 GT20 Turbo Turbine Wheel

434715-0013 / 434715-0027
Suitable for Garrett GT17 GT2056S Turbochargers 
40 mm / 47 mm
6.1 mm
7.88 mm
5.09 mm

Service Kit
Journal bearing

Retaining ring, jnl/brg
Pin, anti-rotation, jnl/brg
Piston ring, t/end
Thrust bearing
Bolt, seal plate/th brg
Thrust spacer
Piston ring, c/end
O ring, seal plate/brg hsg
Thrust collar
O ring, c/hsg112
Bolt, c/end613
Bolt, t/end 4 16

I also have more technical pages for you that will come in handy. They will be of great help when looking at compressor maps Use the conversion tools And you will be able to calculate airflow, pressure and HP figures for the turbocharger you are interested in.


Unknown said...


Digital Agency said...

HI ,
I have Renault Megane Coupe III 1.9dci 130HP f9q engine.
The engine have the GT17/49V Turbo.
Tunner said me with this turbo can handle 180Hp with some mods filter,exhaust.

I was wondering for upgrade the turbo and how much can handle the stock engine .After that i readed in on post you suggested this turbo for 1.9Dci F9Q can Handle 250-300hp.

How many Max Hp Could get with GT2056 in safe mode with stock engine?
If is yes what others mods i need to make to archive this HP?

Thanks in advance.

JD said...

Hello, I'm not too familiar with the 1.9dci engines and also there are not many people that choose to tune these engines, other than the normal chip tunes and filter exhaust mods.. So I can't really give you any good advice on what you should upgrade for the stock engine to be reliable.

That said I would not worry about things like upgraded connecting rods and pistons because the stock 1.9dci parts look strong to me and I see no reason why they should not handle more power.

With the GT2056 turbo fitted you should be able to get at least 200 hp on your stock engine. I'm not sure what the stock boost pressure is on the 1.9 dci engines and what the stock map sensor is capable of running but the turbo is capable of +250 hp, but I would expect you need to run at least 2 bar boost pressure to get close to that power figure if not more. The turbo is capable of running around 2.5 bar if needed, but I doubt the stock sensors etc can handle that high boost pressures.

RRVV said...

Hello from Spain, I have a bmw 330D N57D, 258 Cv stock, my car has 310 hp power map, but I can not upload it anymore because the turbo is in the limit. I want to get to 370-380Cv, what is the turbo that you consider perfect for it? Of course within my plan is to update the intercooler and the exhaust system, for the moment I want to keep the stock injection system

All the best anf thanks in advance

RRVV said...

Of course my stock turbo is GTB2056

Thanks again

JD said...

Hello RRVV, for drivability I would try to get hold of the compound BorgWarner triple-turbo system that is found on the new N57S engines. That should be good for 380-440hp with a good powerband from 1500rpm+ https://drive-my.com/en/tech/item/2172-n57-bmw-s-family.html

If you want to stick to a single turbo then something like the Holset HX35 would make the power and be less complicated if you can make it fit, but you would also not have the wide powerband and power delivery as going with a smaller twin turbo or triple turbo compound setup that the other N57 engines use.

RRVV said...

Thank you for your quick answer!
I have been looking at the different options of the big brothers of my engine, with double or triple turbo and it seems complicated and expensive ...
With a single turbo for a power of 370-380 hp I feel that it could be a bit uncomfortable for the day to day, do you think there could be an option with a single turbo that Works more efficiently if the final power is around 350 cv?


JD said...

Hello, well there is not that many stock options around for that power range. But if you go with a custom made hybrid turbo something like the GTB2565VK turbo made by AVD Turbo at http://www.turbo-upgrade.com/produse/gtb2565vk-mfs-lighter-tw/2134/

You can get around 360hp with their smaller GTB2565VK single turbo and they also have a 400hp option with bigger compressor wheel. But either way, going with a big single turbo you will lose low end power and probably only start to make boost around 2000-2500rpm with that setup.

RRVV said...

hello, thanks again, it seems that the GTB2565VK could work well, thank you very much.
Do you think the G25-550 could work? I have seen that it is a high quality turbo that has a lot of operating range available with different A / R 49, 72 and 92. What would be the right one?

Reading your blog is a great help and I am learning a lot about this world, thanks

JD said...

Hello, the G25-550 turbo could also give you similar power but they also use a bit smaller compressor wheels, but I would say you could get around 350-360hp.

The 0.72 A/R would probably be the best option for a bigger engine I think the 0.49 A/R might be too small for the engine and might choke the power and you could run into surge issues. With the 0.92 A/R you would lose a bit too much low end spool before the turbo starts to build boost.

However only the 0.49 A/R housing use T25 flanges, and the other turbine housings comes with V-Band flanges so you need to check if this is the right style flange for your engine otherwise you would need to make an adapter if you plan on using this turbo.

Navara d40 said...

Hello I have a Nissan Navara with 171ps and I use gt2056v turbo.1)What can I do in order to listen to it more;2)Can i use more bar pressure(1.8 for example)

JD said...

Hello, if you only want to hear the turbo more then all you need is a simple open air filter fitted, similar to what is done in this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Pk3dvMJ2FU

However the best solution and also more expensive is always to get a cold air induction kit like what K&N have, where the filter is blocked off from the warm air inside the engine bay and only cold air is going into the turbo. But then again that might also block a bit more of the sound coming from the turbo vs having only the open air filter fitted.

Unknown said...

hello i have a 407 2l hdi 136cv do you think this 2056 can be mounted on this vehicle?
I think changed the clutch only.

JD said...

Hello, the GT2056 should be a good upgrade turbo for the 407, expect around 200hp and 500nm.

If you decide to change the clutch you can check if any of the Sachs Performance Clutch Kits fits your engine. https://www.sachsperformance.com/en/clutch-kit/competition-clutch-sachs/peugeot-407-6e/2-0-hdi-135-100kw

Unknown said...

hello .I have GTB1756VK in vw golf mk4 1.9 tdi 150 PS original..I have done a tune and now it has 216 PS.. I'm asking you if I mount GTB1756VK will I have more lag than GTB1756VK

Unknown said...

sorry I meant IF I install a GTB2056VK

JD said...

Hello, there should only be around a 3-400rpm difference between the GTB1756VK and GTB2056VK. And with a good tune it could even be a bit less, so it would be a good upgrade turbo.

alby italy said...

i have a gsxr 1000 k4 engine and i want to install a turbo gt2056.the engine rev at 13000 with injectors stock of 270 cc. is it good for this bike for 0,6 bar and 220hp? thank you

JD said...

Hello alby italy, the GT2056 should work fine for the 1000cc K4 engine. However you need to get bigger 500cc injectors to get to 220hp and have some headroom and account for boost spikes with this turbo.

The GT2056 turbo can make 260hp at 0,9bar boost on your bike if you are not careful monitoring boost pressure. And if by accident you get a leak on the wastegate line you could push 300hp. So you could end up running lean really quick and melt pistons if you don't have injectors that can supply the extra fuel.

Also remember that if you want to use E85 fuel you would need to have at least 600cc injectors fitted to be on the safe side.

Unknown said...

2.5L V6 looking for max 400bhp on a twin turbo setup at 20psi boost with 7000rpm limit... These would be ideal?

JD said...

Hello, going with GT2056 turbos should be fine for 400bhp with 20psi boost, you could depending on how much boost you are willing to run push this setup close to 500bhp also if you wanted.

If you are looking for a bit better spool and response you could go with the smaller GT2052 turbos however due to the less airflow, you would need to push them to the limit to get close to 400bhp, probably closer to 350-360bhp would be more realistic.

zak shaker said...

my setup already use one of those GT2056 with t25 flange. Where could I buy an other one ? mine is dying. also where to get repair kit and gaskets ?

JD said...

Hello zak shaker, you need to search for "GT20 rebuild kit" on either Amazon, Aliexpress or Ebay to find all the needed parts.

If you need another turbo and want to save some money you can try and find a used GT2056 and do a rebuild, or you could get a china copy GT2056 also.

But you might have a hard time finding a real T25 flange version. Seems like the 3 Bolt flange or odd 4 bolt flange Nissan Pathfinder GT2056V turbos up for sale are much more common.

Unknown said...

I'm using a GT2056 on a GM 1.4 Turbo engine. 52# injectors, 93 octane gas, race valve springs HP Tuners tune, with modified OEM manifold and T25 flange. This in a 1420# autocross only car.
The GT2056 has had the Waste Gate port enlarged as much as possible, but it still tends to over boost and repeated runs at 26-28 PSI will wear the Trust bearing out, and cause the wheels to touch the housing..
"My candle burns at both ends, it will not last the night, but it makes a wonderous light."

JD said...

Hello, sorry to hear about the turbo issues you are having. If you know for sure the turbo is getting a good steady oil supply, no chance of air (baffled sump / dry sump setup etc.). I like you to look into getting the correct type of 360 degree thrust bearing installed.

If you are repeatedly rebuilding the turbo with the softer sintered type of trust bearings this could be the cause of the turbo not lasting at high boost pressures. Make sure it's the Forged or Billet type of thrust bearing. If unsure you can tell the difference by looking for milling marks from the CNC machining process.


carldolan72 said...

hey there JD, im currently building a morris mini 1340cc. i have done a twin cam head conversion from a BMW k1100 bike and will be running a stand alone ecu and e85. i am looking at either the gt2052 or the gt2056, i am looking for about 200-250hp out the car and reving to 7000-7500rpm. wanting about 16psi also. have you got any ideas on what size would be better for this application

JD said...

Hello carldolan72, if you keep the cams / head somewhat stock the K1100 mini conversion without turbo should make around 120hp without much effort. With 1.1 bar / 16 psi boost you should be right around 250hp with the GT2056 turbo and spool between 3-4000rpm. With some more duration / high lift cams you could get around 300hp with the same boost levels.

But because you are running E85 you won't be limited on how much boost you can run so without any change to cams you could if you like get around to 300hp with 1.5 bar / 22 psi boost.

The GT2052 turbo might give you a little bit better spool and response between shifts due to the smaller and lighter compressor wheel, however you won't get much more than 200hp with that turbo even if you run 1.5 bar / 22 psi boost.

Unknown said...

Dobrý den mam 1.9 mtdi cerpadlo z 11mm hlavou a 520 race trisky bude gt2052 dobra volba děkuje

JD said...

Hello, the bigger 11mm pump supports more power than the GT2052 can deliver. So if you are looking for around 240-250hp out of the 1.9 tdi then you could go with the GT2056 turbocharger instead because it supports higher boost. However if you want a bit better spool and only looking for around 200hp then the GT2052 is a good option.

Unknown said...

Hello from Greece ... I have a rover 620ti engine mounted on a Land Rover 90 ... in which I have used a walbro fuel pump, a 65.5 exhaust, and a free flow filter ... I would like a little more torque and horsepower turbo I could use with a maximum pressure of 1bar ... thanks

JD said...

Hello, you should get around 260hp with 1 bar / 15 psi boost on the 620ti engine. The GT2056 would be a good option if you can find one for a good price. However if you like to have a more modern ball bearing turbocharger you could also go with one of the smaller GT28 turbos, like the GT2854R.

dora said...

Hi i own a gpz 750 turbo and i was wondering if Garrett gt2056 fit's in my motorbike. Thank you for your time and i am looking forward to hearing from you.

JD said...

Hello dora, it should fit without much issues. But you need a new manifold with a T25 flange for the GT20 turbo. And it's probably easiest to run the bike without the lower fairing like this http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll172/4skanker/PHOTO_4890637_46089_7845829_ap.jpg

dora said...

Hello, thank you for your quick response... I would like to ask you one more thing. Is it possible to reach 180hp without risking any engine problems, and if so what sort of modifications should we do (for example add intercooler?, bigger ingection and if so what number?). Your advice means a lot to us...!!!

JD said...

Hello dora, you should need around 1.8 bar / 26 psi boost pressure to reach 180hp on the GPZ 750 Turbo if you are running the stock compression ratio of 7:8:1. Some engines can run into problems with detonation if you are using regular gasoline above 1.5-1.6 bar / 21 psi boost even with a good intercooler.

But even if you stay at a safe level around 1.5 bar / 21 psi boost you should still make around 160hp at that boost level.

Now if you tune for E85 fuel and it's avalialable you should have no problems running higher boost and make 180hp. With E85 you would need a set of 400cc injectors to reach 180hp. If you can only get regular gasoline a set of 300cc injectors should be enough for 160hp.

If however you have space on the bike you could also fit a water methanol injection kit, and have it set to come on at high boost, that way you can run regualar gas and still make 180hp without any risk of detonation.

But you won't really know how the engine will behave on higher boost pressures until you tune it, so if you are lucky you could still make 180hp without any detonation. But if you do find it can run on high boost, I would still add some octane booster to be on the safe side. Because you never know if you get some old / bad fuel it can hurt the engine.

Unknown said...

Hello I'm from south Africa is it possible to fit my T5 kombi 1.9tdi with Gt 2056 without any modification I need a little bit of power

JD said...

Hello, unfortunately the GT2056 will not fit without modification because the stock 1.9tdi turbocharger have a special turbine housing that is part of the exhaust manifold. What you could do is make a custom exhaust manifold and fit the bigger T5 2.5tdi turbo or a similar size GT2052v turbo.

Unknown said...

Hello, I need a little help
I have alpina d10 its m57 diesel engine 3L
Biturbo both turbos are the same gt1749 I was considering gt2056 I would like to get over 400hp hopefully more
and good spool, hopefully low lag?

Thank you

JD said...

Hello, you would probably be looking at around 300-325hp with twin GT2056 turbos fitted if you keep the cams stock and 5000rpm redline.

But for 400hp you would need to go bigger. If you want to keep thing simple darksidedevelopments.co.uk have a GTD2872VRK Billet Hybrid Turbocharger Kit including cast manifold for around 2000 euro. And that should be good for 350-400hp and still have good spool.

However if you want to keep the cost down and go with single turbo you could always go with a Holset HX40 Super turbo and make your own or buy a aftermarket manifold, that setup should give you close to 400hp with good spool also. Beyond 400hp you would need to go with a HX50 or HX52 turbo or some kind of hybrid 67mm turbo.

VeeElJay said...

Hey JD

Your blog was a good read! Very informative.

My query is. I have a 2020 BMW 330i (G20). I checked the turbo in my car and the metal plaque says MGT2056 BMW, P/N 851676-0004. Is this the same GT2056 turbo mentioned in this blog? If so, is the compressor map the same as shown in the pic here? If not, any idea how I can find the compressor map of the turbo on my car? I can give you the S/N if it will be of any help.

Any input will be appreciated.


JD said...

Hello Vipin, I don't think you would find any official compressor map for the MGT2056 turbo. But we can make a good guess if we compare other compressor maps.

The difference is the MGT2056 compressor wheel is a 9 blade and the GT2056 use a 6 blade, but both have around the same size. The GT2554R turbo have the same size also but use an 11 blade wheel.

This would make the MGT2056 compressor map look like something between the GT2056 and GT2554R turbo. You could probably cut the top of the GT2056 map at around Pressure Ratio 3. And widen the GT2554R map to around 30 lb/min. That should be pretty close.

VeeElJay said...

Thank you so much for the reply. I've been searching for a long time but finally found someone who was able to help me. I am truly grateful to you for the reply!
What do you think will be a safe max boost to run with this turbo (MGT2056)? The car produces around 9-10psi (maxing out at 11psi) stock. I've pushed it to max out at 21.9psi since I read 22psi is usually the safe limit. Not sure if you understood what I mean (since I'm quite new to tuning and stuff). If you don't know, that's fine too and I totally understand. Once again, thank you very much for the reply! I appreciate it.

JD said...

Hello Vipin, I'm not sure but I think the MGT2056 and MGT2256 turbos might share the same or similar 360 thurst bearings so you should be safe running around 20-22 psi boost. Going higher might not give you any more power anyway unless you have a really good intercooler or do water/methanol injection to keep things cool.

You could contact Turbo Lab America he might know more about your specific turbo as he does bmw rebuilds and has sold quite a few of these MGT2256S rebuild kits

Wilq said...

Hi. I have following turbo model: GT2056KSZ, what are the differences comparing to the one here? Would be possible to see compressor map for that variant? What I can see is that on my turbo there is A/R=0.56 and M75 written. It has higher potential than 300HP?

JD said...

Hello, at first glance it does not seem like the GT2056KSZ can flow any more air than the GT2056. I don't have the inducer size so I can't say for sure what the real potential is. They do seem to share the same 47mm turbine wheel and the only big differece is the twin scroll turbine housing.

But you can look at the thread on the Alfa Romeo Giulia Forum there's some more info there https://www.giuliaforums.com/threads/lack-of-bigger-turbos-and-tuning-discuss.45532/

Wilq said...


Thanks for reply. Yes, I know that forum from your link. Why I'm asking as I know that majority of people who are tuning e.g. Giulia on that stock turbo are reaching max 305HP (some of them 320HP but not sure if that is real)from stock 280HP, so maybe there are some slight differences with more air flow

JD said...

Hello Wilq, yes there would need to be a bit more airflow to reach a real 320hp. I would expect a bigger 45mm compressor wheel would be needed, and even then you would need to be in the right spot on the compressor map for it to work out.

There is 43mm billet compressor wheels sold for the GT2056s so with that and a really good tune and a good cool day at the dyno 320hp could be in reach. But in real world condition it would be hard to get to that number. http://shopping.kinugawaturbo.com/billetturbocompressorwheelgarrettgt2056s4356mmrexton110blade436563.aspx

If some are getting a real 320hp on paper it could be down to a dyno calibration issue, or perhaps they did the runs with some high octane race gas in the tank.

Wilq said...

Hello JD. Thanks for reaching that topic again :) recently I made hybrid turbo upgrade on that GT2056KSZ (bigger compressor wheel and turbine - plus clipping on hot side). I have seen in the logs even 1050kg/h air flow which is about 38 lb/min. However there is no power. Do you know if that is possible that compressor map has not been properly taken into account in correlation with ECU? My tuner did a soft, but there is no expected power (which should be around 370HP)

Wilq said...

Just additional info. I used parts from Focus RS. Based on the drag times which I did (1/4 mile, 60-130mph) it seems that I have the same power as before
.. 305HP..not sure what is wrong if turbo is enhanced with hybrid upgrade...looks like ECU cannot "talk" with newer compressor map. Is that possible somehow??

JD said...

Hello Wilq, if it's not an ECU tuning issue then it could be the injectors being too small. A good tuner would be able to tell you this.

Wilq said...

Hi. I made an update for compressor wheel to inducer 49.6mm exducer 63mm (stock was: 42/56), and turbine increased to inducer 50.1mm and exducer 45.85mm (stock was: 47/40). It is about GT2056KSZ turbo. How many HP I could expect comparing to original 300hp max and what boost level could be safe in that updated turbo case??. Are you able to answer these questions based on dimensions of the newer compressor/turbine? I have seen 1060kg/h of airflow when 1.78bar has been used in soft

JD said...

Hello Wilq, looking into it more you could get around 360-370hp from the updated turbo. However I think because the stock Giulia cylinder head might have rather poor airflow, and also a high 10.0 compression ratio means you are not seeing the power increase. It might be the ECU is already detecting some detonation and reducing power, or there is a set boost limit around 1.8bar.

Because you are seeing more than 1.5bar boost I'm guessing the MAP sensor installed needs to be a 3bar Map Sensor and not the smaller 2.5bar (1.5 bar max boost) that is also found in some models.

So that would mean max boost is going to be limited to around 2.0 bar. But you should see around 330hp with 2bar / 29 psi boost. And to get to around 350hp you would need around 2.2 bar / 32 psi boost pressure.

Either way you won't really be able to run that high boost without running into the risk of detonation on regular fuel, and the ECU will probably limit boost/power well below that to save the engine. You can switch over and tune the car to run E85 fuel. Or one alternative is you could get a water methanol injection kit installed and see if that helps.

But that will only work if the ECU does not have a boost limit set and you make sure you really have a 3 Bar Map Sensor. Best would be to get new pistons and drop the compression ratio to around 8.0:1. That way you could run higher boost without risk of damage.

Wilq said...

Hi JD. Many thanks again for very professional answer. I'm not an expert on all of this stuff, but I'm wondering if it's problem with my hybrid turbo or there is other factor which blocks HP potential. I can see airflow on 4th gear 1040-1060kg/h , but for 5th gear there is still boost at 1.75 1.78 but airflow drops to max 960kg/h and that's why it is not producing more power.its not holding high airflow rate and on 5,6 gears I'm starting to see a lot of timing advance reductions -3° on three cylinders. I'm using higher octane petrol (ron=99). Ah one note...I asked hybrid shop to make a clipping on turbine blades. Is that something which could have some impact as well on overall performance?

Wilq said...

and when it comes to measurement on rolling dyno it shows 326HP on 5th gear (1.78bar of boost)

JD said...

Hello Wilq, clipping the turbine wheel would only make the turbine flow more so that won't impact power. And with 960kg/h you should still be able to make around 350hp. I think if it's not the ECU limiting something then perhaps you have such high back pressure already that at around 1.7 bar boost the engine can't flow properly.

Wilq said...

Hi JD. Thanks again. I was also thinking about that back pressure issue (could be due to my free flow 3" exhaust with 100cpsi cat maybe??). I will look for another tuner who will try to get into this more deeply. Having 1050-1060kg/h of air flow I think I should easily make 360HP, isn't??

JD said...

Hello Wilq, a 3" exhaust should be fine for your power level. Even a free flow 2.5" system would work but that small size do start to build a lot of back pressure at higher hp but you can still push almost 400hp with that. Yes you should be getting around 360hp with that airflow and with a really good tune you could see 370hp even.

Wilq said...

HI. Thanks JD. Regarding max air flow - if I have had 1060kg/h which is 38.9lb/min at 1.78bar, is it possible to calculate more less MAF rate at 2 bars of boost?

JD said...

Hello Wilq, it would depend on how efficient the compressor is at that pressure ratio. Chances are you would still have the same airflow at higher boost pressures. But if we assume you are in a good efficient place in the compressor map right now, you could probably add 10% to the airflow with higher boost. However without knowing how the compressor map looks it's really hard to calculate.

Navara d40 said...

Navara D40 171 hp
How much boost can I run with free flowing exhaust and free flow filter

JD said...

Hello Navara d40, you can push the boost pressure up to around 2 bar / 29 psi boost and get around 200hp. However you would need to do a remap to get the best results. Also you would need to make sure you have a good intercooler.

The Navara already run up to 20 psi with stock boost so it is already running fairly high boost and if the intercooler can't cool the air enough any additional boost added would not make any more power.

Navara d40 said...

Will the map read the boost in order to deliver the right fuel?

JD said...

Hello Navara d40, if you don't do a remap the only way to know for sure is to have an air fuel gauge installed like the AEM’s X-Series Wideband. I can't find what the max pressure the ecu or map sensor is able to read in stock form. But because it is already shown by others that stock peak is around 20 psi it could mean it's a 2 or 2.5 bar map sensor or simply that is where the map ends and the stock ecu will start to reduce power.

Unknown said...

I installed gt2056v hybrid turbo along with bigger fmic, egr deleted, turbo back 2.5 exhaust system with 200cel cat, euro 3 injectors (185hp version), new vacuum hoses, k&n intake in my 2005 volvo s60 2.4d5. Next week I'm taking my car for a final remap. Any idę how much power can I expect with this mods?

JD said...

Hello, it's going to depend on the boost you are willing to run. The stock 3 bar map sensor would limit you to around 2 bar / 29 psi boost max. So you can't really go above 240hp unless you do a remap with another map sensor. However if you want to stay with a more moderate tune 200hp should not be any problems with a good tune and around 1.6 bar / 23 psi boost.

Unknown said...


JD said...

Hello, it might be difficult because I think on some versions the stock 1.4tdi turbo have a combined turbine/exhaust manifold. And if that's the case you won't be able to only upgrade the turbo to a bigger one unless you make a custom manifold or find a manifold that would work. Either way if you do get a bigger turbo fitted you would still only be able to run around 110hp / 250nm max before the clutch starts to slip. So if you want to make a bit more power than the GT1547 turbo but keep the stock clutch you should instead consider the GT1749v turbocharger.

Chris said...

Hi, I hope you can help.
I have a Nissan D22 Navara with the YD25 engine (96kw) and am looking to upgrade my turbo (RHF4). I am looking at this or a TD04HL-15T #6 (A/R 0.41) off a SAAB 9-3. Fabricating a new manifold is not a problem. I still want something that spools fast for everyday driving. Which do you think will be the better option?
Thanks you

JD said...

Hello Chris, the RHF4 turbo is already a very good match for the YD25 engine, however it can't give you much more power. The TD04HL-15T should give you around 140kw / 200hp however without the variable vane turbine housing you would sacrifice some spool. The GT1749V does have variable vanes however it's comparable to the RHF4 turbo. If you want some more power and still have the help of variable vanes for spool you might want to look at the GT2052v VNT turbo.

Chris said...

Hi JD, thank you for the reply.
Around 200hp is the aim so that would be great. My fear also is having it start spooling way to late, I've gotten the RHF4 to start at around 1700RPM. At around what RPM do you think the TD04 will start?

The problem I'm having with the Garrett vs the MHI is the cost factor, locally anything with the Garrett badge is about 4x more expensive than anything ells.


JD said...

Hello Chris, you should start to see some boost around 2000rpm but because it's lacking VNT, it's going to be a bit slow to build boost and it might take to 3000rpm before you get full boost.

Chris said...

100% and thank you, I appreciate all your input

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Folks don't forget about racing safety gear when buying auto racing parts

I have been tuning engines for a long time and with that experience I tend to look a bit more at how other people tune their cars and bikes than anyone else. Now this is not true for everyone, but most of you will recognize yourself at some level.

About 25 years ago the level of tuning an ordinary street car would ever see was at most 30% increase in power. (Not true for every car out there, but I'm talking ordinary street cars here)

So if you had an Ford, Volvo or BMW the amount of power you could get would have been in the 150hp range and in some extreme cases 250hp. At this point this was the "limit" of ordinary naturally aspirated engines at that time. Yes there was a lot of racing going on at that time, and some of these race engines did get put into street cars and power levels would have been 300+ hp. But the amount of maintenance these race engines required and the cost to keep them running were too much for most people.

Back then you could not just go into a racing store and buy yourself a set of forged pistons and connecting rods. Let alone camshafts and valves to build your race engine.

With the introduction of turbochargers however the power suddenly increased to levels that are still uncommon in today’s cars. At the beginning people where not really sure how to tune turbo engines and intercoolers where something that most people had never heard of. Silicone hoses where did you get that?

You would have to know someone in the maintenence department that did service on trucks or busses that had turbocharged Diesel engines at the time to buy the simple things like, clamps, hoses, gaskets, oil lines etc. Even something like an external Wastegate that are availiable almost everywhere now today you could not get your hands on. And something like real drag tires where not that common either.

But as time passed by, engine tuners got their hands on more parts, most that had the machines and tools started to make their own intercoolers, wastegates and all the parts that were hard to get and the knowledge and the tuning business took of.

Now it still took some time before engine management systems and electric fuel injection where you could really start to extract power out of engines became common and figure out how to tune the software to make that work. To start if you found someone who could tune these you would have to fork out serious doe to get everything working. Well you still might have to do that today, and serious race teams do spend alot of money to get the electrical side working right. Today there are so many more things you can do with a powerful ECU, like traction control, different boost pressures for low and high gears, launch control, shiftcut etc.. This list is very long.

But before all that came chip tuning and fuel injected turbo engines. What was unheard of just 20 years ago would now become a reality for anyone with a few minutes of tuning. Some of you might know the story of the Ford RS Cosworth, Nissan Skyline, Audi S1 Quattro, Lancia S4 to name a few and other icons of the late 1980 and early 1990. The turbo engines back then would give you 200hp and that is still today 25 years on about the same power level you would get from a new car. However today this is a common power figure for a station wagon. And back in the 80s only a few racing breed turbo engines would give you that.

But with a few changes to the ECU with chip tuning and some larger fuel injectors all that was needed then was to turn up the boost pressure and 350hp where unleashed. The only real limit here was only how much air the standard turbocharger could supply.

Sure there where different levels of basic tuning you could do but the effect was the same, more power.

With more and more tuner friendly cars coming out over the years the power figures are still holding almost the same. Just until recently where the powerfigures have really started to go up and beyond what was thought possible only a few years ago..

But what have really changed today is the huge amount of DIY tuners out there. What engine tuners did 25 years ago have now entered the garage and racing parts have now become widely available to anyone. From the cheap Chinese made turbo exhaust manifolds to wastegates and almost every tuning part you can think of to the pure racing parts like forged pistons and engine management systems on sale that anyone can buy.

So what has happened is anyone with a little background in mechanics can now build their own race engine. Power levels have just gone up and up and up.. It’s not uncommon to see street cars today with 500hp and then there are the ones who have gone even higher, breaking the 1000hp barrier.

The one thing that all these engines have in common to achieve such power levels are of course the turbocharger. Without the turbo it would not have been possible. Well a supercharger or N02 injection could do the job too but that’s another story.

However time and time again people forget the most important parts when tuning cars. I’m talking about safety and racing safety gear. I do see that people buy racing seats and that’s good. But most of the time they don’t buy racing seats because of the added safety. It’s because they think racing seats look good. And what about things like auto racing helmets that keeps your head intact. Most of the time people come to the track without real racing helmets and if it’s street racing that’s taking place, no one seems to bother wearing any kind of racing helmets at all.

I do understand that people feel protected inside their cars and they don’t think they need roll cages and in some cases opt for roll bars instead but you really need to think about this.

Some of the racing safety gear you should look at are the following:
racing suit
racing shoes
racing helmets
racing gloves

This would be the minimum for my liking if your going on a trackday or similar race day event with your tuned car.

In case you don’t have a fuel cell in your car and there is a chance of fire or fuel leak then you should consider racing fire suits also because these will save your life.

Fire is not to be taken lightly. If you have a good fuel system in place to feed your engine and anyone who are looking for power is going to have that. Then you need to understand that at any given time those racing fuel pumps are pumping 2 gallons of fuel every minute. And if you get a leak and have an accident you are in real trouble if the power to the pumps are not cut right away.

So having the right racing safety gear to protect you is always a good choice. Today’s car are much safer than the ones years ago, but you need to understand that when we double and triple the amount of power and turn our 100mph car into a 200mph fire spitting monster of a car you really, really should spend some time and pick out some racing safety gear also.