Tuesday, March 5, 2013

Garrett GT06 – GT0632SZ – 32 TRIM - 80 HP

This is currently the smallest Garrett turbocharger to date. This small frame turbocharger GT0632SZ recently came out and have only been available now since late 2012.

Being so small and tiny it still have the capability to produce peak horsepower 80 hp at around 300.000 rpm and is best suited for engines between 100cc to 500cc. It's a popular choice now even for mopeds, perfect for go-karts, ATV's, scooters because the GT06 will work well down to 25hp also.

Tiny Garrett GT06 Turbocharger VS Coca Cola Can
Tiny Garrett GT06 Turbocharger VS Coca Cola Can
We can see from these pictures just how tiny the GT06 Turbocharger really is in comparison to a ordinary Coca Cola Can.

And also a picture showing how small the turbocharger compressor wheel is (32mm) with the compressor housing lifted off. Looking at the coins and the turbo compressor wheel you really start to see just how tiny this new Garrett Turbocharger is.

GT0632SZ Turbocharger Specifications

Model: 789997-1
CHRA: 800039-1

Bearing: Journal
Cooling: Oil

Tiny Garrett GT06 Turbocharger Compressor Wheel vs Coins
Tiny Garrett GT06 Turbocharger Compressor Wheel vs Coins
Inducer: 22.63 mm
Exducer: 32 mm
Trim: 50
A/R 0.32

Wheel: 30 mm
Trim: 72
A/R: 0.18

A reader have added the following:The inertia of the GT06 turbo rotor is 2.39e-06

The compressor map have also a very broad range and boost pressures can go up to 1.7 bar before this small turbocharger goes out of it's preferred work area.

Garrett GT06 Turbocharger Exhaust View
Garrett GT06 Turbocharger Exhaust View
Together with a good flowing engine there should not be any problem to get peak power at around 1 bar of boost pressure with this turbocharger.

Garrett GT06 Turbocharger Compressor Side View
Garrett GT06 Turbocharger Compressor Side View

GT0632SZ Turbine Flow 72 Trim 0.18 A/R
GT0632SZ Turbine Flow 72 Trim 0.18 A/R

GT0632SZ Compressor Map Flow 50 Trim 0.32 A/R
GT0632SZ Compressor Map Flow 50 Trim 0.32 A/R 32MM

Because the GT06 is so new not to many people have started using this turbocharger yet. Also due to reasons unknown there are also a lack of flanges for this turbo. Garrett have not updated it's catalog to include this turbocharger yet as of  (March 5, 2013)

Garrett GT1241 GT0632Z
Garrett GT1241 Specifications Flanges GT0632Z
It's not a standard T25 and the only bolt pattern I see similar to this is that of the older GT12 small turbo turbine outlet shown here. Until more people start using this turbocharger to turbo all kinds of mopeds, scooters, atv, lawn mowers... We will not know for sure.

The good thing is that the turbine wheel is cast from "Inconel" material for extreme applications, it's oil cooled and it comes complete with a wastegate included.

I also have more technical pages for you that will come in handy. They will be of great help when looking at compressor maps Use the conversion tools And you will be able to calculate airflow, pressure and HP figures for the turbocharger you are interested in.


Anonymous said...

Do you have information about the inertia of the turbine and compressor wheels (Gt06) ?

JD said...

Sorry no additional information about the turbo compressor wheel or turbine wheel as of this moment. Mostly because the small Garrett GT06 turbocharger is new to the turbocharger scene. I will update with more information as soon as I get any. Thanks.

Anonymous said...

Thanks man, would be really cool because i need this inertia value for detailed turbocharger simulation! Greetings

Saut Syafrudin said...

Dear all, any idea to use tiny turbocharger at small diesel engine, Kubota RD65, 376CC, 5.5HP at 2200 Rpm. i will use this small diesel engine for DC Diesel Generator with Variable Engine Speed. 1200 to 2200 Rpm. Thank You

Anonymous said...

I'm building a motorized bike with a Lifan 125cc 4-stroke engine and was wondering if I could use it on that engine?

JD said...

Hello, yes the 1 cylinder Lifan 125cc 4-stroke engines and similar sized bike engines like Honda, will spool up the Garrett GT06 Turbocharger. The higher you are able to rev the engine the better (+8000rpm). But to get the most of this small Garrett GT06 turbocharger on small engines you need to be able to tune the ignition timing as well as the fuel and have the right size and length (really short) turbo manifold to keep the exhaust gases spinning the turbo.

Small Diesel engines will have a hard time spooling the turbocharger if the rpm is so low (2000rpm). Also Diesel engines have cooler exhaust gases because Diesels are more efficient, and that hurts the ability to get the turbocharger to spool up and you won't get much performace from a really small low rpm turbocharged diesel engine.

Anonymous said...

Can dis turbocharger be used for a single clyinder 400cc petrol engine??????

JD said...

Hello, the Garrett GT0632Z turbocharger is small enough to be used on engines between 100cc to 500cc. If you have a really low power / low reving single cylinder engine (below 10hp) then you might have problems with it not spooling up good and building boost. But if this is a bike or ATV engine that makes some decent power, then you should not have any problems.

Anonymous said...

The inertia of the GT06 rotor is 2.39e-06

Levi Skuse said...

hey can i put this turbo on my stock 20hp briggs&stratton vanguard twin cylinder 570cc? would it hurt the engine to run it with stock pistons, connecting rods, and everything? basically can i put this small enough turbo charger on my lawnmower engine just the way it is, or would my engine only last 5 months before xploding or something please reply?

JD said...

Hello Levi, yes you would be able to run the GT06 turbocharger on your 570cc Briggs & Stratton Vanguard V-Twin. I would advice you to try and get the engine to rev a bit more than the max 3.300rpm to further help spool the GT06 turbo. And also if you don't have already, you would need to modify the carburetor so it would still work and supply the extra fuel needed with a turbo fitted. This is normally done by adding boost pressure from the turbo to the float bowl. And you also need to get oil pressure to the turbocharger from the engine with an oil line and also an oil return made. As far as the twin 570cc Vanguard engine is concerned, the stated Compression Ratio of 8.2:1 means you should not have any problems if you keep an eye on the boost pressure and not go much above 10 psi. That should give you around 30-35hp. You can go higher. But if so, you need to look at fitting either an intercooler or running methanol / water injection to keep the engine from detonating, Because the engine is a V-twin it really helps. But you need to make sure you take care of the engine and have good oil and the right fuel mixture, then it should last without problems. If something does break, it usually is either the connecting rods or the bearings that will fail first in these types of engines.
Hope this helps and good luck.

Levi Skuse said...

ok, thank you so much for the information,,,yes i know the the oil lubercation and every thing, i actually have a li'l oil pressure gage hooked up to the oil filter base were the little senser is and when i start it up cold start in 30 degree F temperature, with the throttle all the way low, it still reads past 100 psi then it will change normal once it warms up, i have 5w-30 in it... thank you so much for the help,,,, i do have a few more questions though, on the top of the carburetor on my engine, theres to little screws right next to each other with a little pipe sticking out below each screw, those are the fuel mixture adjustments but I'm not sure what way to turn them,,, its winter time over here, when i turn them should i turn them to were the rpms will go a lil higher and it will run smoother, or adjust it back to where the idle goes down a little bit and it runs a bit rougher,,, I'm so sorry for all these questions man,,, my engine model is 351777 if that helps.

Levi Skuse said...

maby is there like a way i could take a picture of the carb and show you or email it to you? because you can see the whole thing in the pic,?

Levi Skuse said...

never mind i found my model carb and everything thanks man.

Charles Edward said...

Would this be the ideal turbo for my 2014 Ninja EX300? Whats the ideal RPM range?

JD said...

Hello Charles, at the moment the Garret GT0632SZ turbocharger would be your best choice for your 300cc Kawasaki Ninja. With the right exhaust and setup it should pretty much give you power from 8000 rpm all the way to the redline. And around 50 hp if you run E85 fuel and 1 bar (14 psi) boost on this engine. If you can't run E85 fuel you need to drop the compression ratio and try fitting an intercooler to be able to turn up the boost without the risk of detonation.

dplecko said...

Very impressed with this little turbo, I have made a custom CNC billet A/R turbine housing for it.

JD said...

Hello Dave is it?

That is some impressive work you have done on the Postie bike and some nice machining on that custom turbine housing and fabrication work on the bike too. Congrats on 180 km/h with that Postie Bike Salt Lake Racer, I topped out my Honda Z50 at 80km/h turning around 12-13000rpm still on the stock 49cc ages ago. So it's nice to see people still pushing these types of engines to the limit. World’s Fastest Indian movie is one of my favorites, I wish you best of luck to brake that 125mph record!

yilson jose paredes araujo said...

hola este turbo le servira a una Bera 200 es de 13 hp

JD said...

Hello Jose, I don't know much about the Bera 200 but from what I can tell the Garrett GT06 will work on the Bera 200cc. It will start to make good power if you can rev it past 7-8000 rpm.

Unknown said...

What would br the case if I mounted this to a 1200 cc vtwin Harley motor.
Quick spool of would the capacity of the engine be restricted as the small porting of the turbo ow would it be on gate to much. Mabye a gt12 would be a better choice. Only drama is block is air cooler so no coolant available

Just looking at basicly near instant spool and most way thru out the ref range ( limiter set at 7500) not looking at high boost mabye 5 to 10 psi as stock block

Best regards

JD said...

Hi Brian, I say this small GT06 would definitely choke that 1200cc engine. Your Carburetor inlet is probably around 40mm stock and this GT06 turbo inducer is half that only 22.63mm.

It would spool up quick, but even the exhaust side would start to choke the top end power. And with only air cooling avaliable this turbo would also run hot just by being so small.

Like you said the GT12 would be a much better choice and even the GT15 would not be a bad pick either, might be a bit slower to spool but it would run cooler and you can keep the boost pressure down and still make the power.

Unknown said...

Hi JD, I'm about to order this turbocharger to be installed in a small one-cylinder, 650cc, diesel engine. The current engine power is 14 hp @3600rpm. Do you think this Turbo will work with this small engine at this rpm range?
Besides that, I would like to know if I could use the same oil system as the engine or if I need to plug a separate oil pump? In any case, what is the oil pressure I should be looking for? can you recommend an appropriate oil pump?
Thanks a lot for your help,
Alvaro M.

Unknown said...

Hi Guys! I'm currently trying to push my 799cc diesel smart fortwo past 80HP and mold like to know what you guys think. Should i go with this GT06 or GT12?

JD said...

Hi Alvaro, the GT06 turbocharger is probably your best option for a 650cc engine. But because it's a Diesel to help it spool up better I would recommend that you try and keep the exhaust going to the turbocharger as short as possible and also without bends. And also try and use a similar small size pipe diameter going to the turbo. This would help the turbocharger build boost faster on your Diesel engine.

You don't need a separate oil pump, this is a journal bearing turbocharger so you can run an oil line from your engine. Your oil line hose and fittings will act as an oil pressure restrictor in this case.

It's only the ball bearing turbochargers that you don't want to run too high oil pressure into because ball bearings don't need as much oil.

JD said...

Hi, for a 799cc Diesel engine if your goal is to go past 80hp then you might be better off with the Garrett GT12 turbocharger because 80hp is at the limits of what the GT06 turbocharger is able to flow. And for a Diesel engine you need even more air to get to the same HP level as a gasoline engine.

Unknown said...


I would like to use the GT06 on a single cylinder engine which is build for Formula Student series. On the test bench I would like to use a separated oil system (not the engine's oil system) Could you tell me what is the minimum value of the oil flow rate? I need to know it to decide which pressure regulator valve is suitable for the system. Thank you!

JD said...

Hello, a journal bearing turbocharger like the GT06 need at a minimum 1.5 bar oil pressure. I would recommend 2 bar oil pressure to be on the safe side if the engine is going to be driven hard. Good luck with the build!

Unknown said...

hi JD , can i use this gt06 for my ninja 150cc 2stroke ??

JD said...

Hello, yes this GT06 turbo should work fine with a 150cc 2 stroke. You might need to do some tests with the exhaust lengths and size to see what works better to get the best performance considering it's a 2 stroke engine you are turbocharging.

Justjunior02 said...

Would these turbos work in a twin turbo design on a brute force 750 atv? Its a two cylinder 4stroke machine

JD said...

Hi Justjunior02, going with a twin turbo setup would work. However if you have space I would try and combine the exhausts going to the two GT06 turbochargers, that way it might be easier to control the boost pressure once you get everything running.

grandpa said...


Would this turbocharger be suitable for a two cylinder 800cc engine turning at around 3400 RPM? The application would be a horizontally opposed two cylinder engine, specifically a half-VW. This implies that the exhaust pulses would be evenly spaced, unlike a Vee-type engine. The unmodified engine produces around 28HP.

JD said...

Hi granpa, yes I think the GT06 turbo should work fine for your engine. But like I mentioned to Justjunior02 earlier with his 750cc engine, if possible try and make the collector as open as possible so the exhaust are able to mix before going into the turbo. That way you will get a more even pressure in the exhaust and it will make it easier to control the boost pressure.

grandpa said...

Thanks JD. Just to be sure I understand what you are suggesting, this would be a single turbo, with the two exhaust pipes combined before entering the turbo, with a volume in the exhaust system prior to the turbo made fairly large so as to dampen the exhaust pulses somewhat so as to even out the pressure changes between the exhaust pules. Does that sound like what you are describing?

JD said...

Hi grandpa, yes exactly like that, the correct term would probably be a merge collector type exhaust. The turbine housing on the GT06 have a very different type flange and inlet compared to other turbochargers so making it a real merge collector would be hard to do in a simple way, but if you can even out the pulses before the turbo a bit I think it would help, especially with big cylinder engines. Small engines won't have this problem.

Similar to what is shown in this picture.

grandpa said...

Now for a really basic question about reading a compressor map, sort of "compressor maps for dummies" question. When it refers to "corrected air flow" does that mean the air flow consumed by the engine with the turbo installed or for a naturally aspirated version of the same engine? I have searched high and low on the internet for the answer to this simple question and have not found it. Of course, the answer would make a huge difference for how one would go about finding the correct size of turbocharger.


JD said...

Hi grandpa, most turbocharger manufacturers are very secretive when it comes to turbo compressor maps and testing. Some like Holset do not even give out any information like compressor maps to the public.

Garrett most likely use something like a Turbocharger Air Flow Bench for their testing like seen in this video, so the turbo is never really connected to an engine www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q8CR-NwxXE0

Garrett does however give an example and explain corrected air flow.

When plotting actual airflow data on a compressor map, the flow must be corrected to account for different atmospheric conditions that affect air density.

Air Temperature (Air Temp) - 60°F
Barometric Pressure (Baro) - 14.7 psi
Engine air consumption (Actual Flow) = 50 lb/min
Corrected Flow= Actual Flow SQR([Air Temp+460]/545)/ Baro/13.95
Corrected Flow= 50*SQR([60+460]/545)/ (14.7/13.95) = 46.3 lb/min

Now if we do this very simple, for your 800cc engine you said it makes 28hp at 3400 rpm, so that means the engine is moving around 3 lb/min of air by itself at that rpm give or take, and with the same equation 3*SQR((60+460)/545)/(14.7/13.95) = 2.78 lb/min

So looking at the compressor map with 2.78 corrected air flow (3400rpm on the engine) you are not at any risk of surge if you stay around 1 bar boost (turbo spinning 240000 rpm). You can follow the 240000 rpm line on the map and you see that 6 lb/min (or around 60hp) is possible.

Here's a quick video that explain a bit more details about how to read a compressor map. And I'm sure there are a few more that gives even more details with math about how to calculate the correct turbo size.

Turbo Compressor Map Explained [GO FAST BRETT]

Unknown said...

I have a two-stroke motor bike 500cc.
I will make it a turbo, and I want to target 100-120hp
what turbo would you suggest?
(it goes without saying that it is going to be like that intercooler, Fuel Pumps, oil pump)

JD said...

Hi, a two stroke 500cc engine will be much more like a 1000cc 4 stroke. So I would suggest you look at the Garrett GT1241 turbocharger or the GT1544 turbo. Both should be able to give you 120hp. But considering if your powerband is now something like 8000-12000rpm I would go with the GT15 turbocharger. The GT15 turbo will be able to hold the boost pressure high even at higher rpm.

But not too many people are turbocharging two stokes so I can't say for sure what happnes when you remove the expansion chamber exhaust and add a turbocharger to two stroke engine like that.

bill ben said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
bill ben said...

excuse me, two-cylinder I wanted to say.. :) four-stroke is the engine.
thank you very much for your answer!!

JD said...

Hi Bill, well in that case you should look at the smaller Garrett GT1241, as the GT06 turbo won't give you 100hp, it would only make close to around 80hp max. The GT12 is the better option then if you want 100+hp and I'm sure 120hp is possible.

bill ben said...

Thanks for the help!
one more question, if we went to GT1544 would we fall great?

JD said...

Hi Bill, the GT1544 have a bigger exhaust housing so it would take longer to start to build boost on a 500cc, and the powerband will be smaller because of that also.

Chad Heistand said...

I'm looking for a turbo for a 1liter diesel engine turning 3100 rpms. Would this turbo work?

JD said...

Hello Chad, yes at 3100rpm your 1 liter diesel engine will be flowing around 3.22 lb/min air. A quick look at the compressor map, an this GT06 turbocharger would work.

Smoke geeks Bhoola said...

will this work on a Kawasaki GPX250R and what other mods will I have to do to make this work

JD said...

Hello Smoke, yes the Garrett GT0632sz should work well on the 250cc Kawasaki engine. The 12.4:1 compression ratio is a bit high for boost, so I would fit double head gaskets to drop the compression ratio. But this depends on how much power you want and how much boost you need. But you are looking at around 0.8 - 1bar boost to get around 80hp on the 250R engine.

If the bike have fuel injection you would need to either fit an aftermarket ecu and bigger injectors. Or you can leave the stock ecu in place and get something similar to the RSR AIC400 Additional Injector Controller https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/rsraic400.htm

If you have carburetors you would only need to fit something like the Thunder PowerJet https://thunderproducts.com/product/thunder-powerjet/ and that will solve the extra fuel needed to run a turbo.

Nicks said...

Hey JD how can i contact you do you have a facebook profile i want to show you my engine and tell me some information about the small turbo.. thanks

JD said...

Hi Nicks, sorry no facebook.

Unknown said...

Want to run on 2017 Kawasaki 300 ninja re-sleeved to 345cc. What exhaust length do you recommend for max top end HP(Land speed racer) and do I need higher pressure fuel pump. Running Power Commander with ignition module. Can add turbo pressure monitoring. Any suggestions gratefully accepted. Thanks

JD said...

Hello, a good start for a turbo manifold would be to have equal lengths and around 550mm / 22 inches. For a land speed racer where you want max top end power you could even go with 750mm / 29 inch lengths if there is room. However it really comes down to the engine, and no engine is the same. So it's best to try different lengths if possible and see how the engine responds.

I'm not sure what injectors the 300 ninja use, or if the map sensor and ECU can read boost pressure. So first you would probably need to figure out a way on how to add extra fuel when the turbo starts building boost pressure.

Unknown said...

Sir i have an liquid cooled ktm duke 390 approx 373 cc engine i want to use gt06 on this .bike also have efi in it ,with stock piston an other stuff. It generete 43 bhp does the turbo work on it or my engine will deformed

Unknown said...

Sir are you on Instagram 🤓

JD said...

Hello, sorry no Instagram. The GT06 turbo should be good for you on the 373cc KTM bike. I would expect to see around 70 hp with 0.7 bar / 10 psi boost pressure. And you could probably get to 80 hp but would need to run closer to 1 bar / 14 psi boost for that.

However I would not try and go beyond 70 hp because the rod bearings and crank pin will start to wear down really quick if you are pushing +80 hp. At that power level you can only expect the crank / engine to survive one season of racing before a complete rebuild with new bearings, crank pin and possible piston and piston pin..

So for longevity I would keep the power to around 60-70 hp.

Unknown said...

Hi JD ,
I want to use this gt06 turbo on my ktm 390 engine can you tell me what are the problem could come on turbocharging a single cylinder and how bad it affect transient ?

JD said...

Hello, I would say if you stay around 60-70hp and use good quality oil then you probably will be ok with the normal maintenance like oil, filter change every 15hours / 620 miles as per the KTM recommendation.

With the stock piston you should be fine for 2-300 hours of use. However when you start to push single cylinder engines past 80+ hp and race them then you might expect the piston to only last 50 hours and the same with bearings, rods etc.

So you can see how that extra power can really start to wear on a engine simply because it was not designed to handle that power level to begin with.

Unknown said...

Hello, hope you can help. I have Harley XR1200, fuel injected with ThunderMax ECU - can autotune etc.
Would 2 of these be suitable, each one mounted very close to exhaust from head then both feeding into a plenum, hopefully at least 2 litres volume to compensate for being a twin.
My other project is a 1948 500cc, max revs 6k and can fit fuel injection. Hoping one of these would work as intended.
My math for plotting compressor map for each of these projects has me stumped so far.
Thankyou for helping my 2 bike projects

JD said...

Hello, twin GT06 turbos would work pretty well. I guess your XR1200 puts out around 80hp so running with twin GT06 turbos you should be able to support around 160hp at around 1 bar / 15 psi boost.

Because the turbos are the smallest turbos out there you would be running them at the far right of the compressor map on your engine so it won't be the most efficient setup. I can't really say how quick they would spool because that also depends on how short you can build the exhaust, and also a bigger plenum will also take a bit longer to fill so that also comes into play with response and spool. But I would guess you should have them spool around 4-5000rpm.

You don't have many options considering the next size turbo is the GT1241 and that would be too big to run with twin turbos. However if you want to you could run a single GT1241 turbo also.

For the 1948 500cc the GT06 would be the best option and I think you should have no problems spooling this turbo on that engine. You won't need fuel injection but it does make fine tuning easier.

Unknown said...

Hola. Tengo un fiat 126p del 1985 con su motor original 670 cc y 24cv. Funcionaria este el GT06 en el o algún otro que sea bien pequeño. Gracias desde Cuba

Unknown said...

Hola. Tengo un fiat 126p del 1985 con su motor original de 670 cc y 24cv. Funcionaria el GT06 en este motor. Gracias desde cuba

JD said...

Hola, yes the GT06 would work, expect to get around 50cv with 1 bar / 15 psi boost pressure.

Unknown said...

Where can I get information about GT06 installation, especially oil lines(inlet vs outlet) and what pressure spring comes standard in the waste gate.

JD said...

Hello, unsure about the oil lines but the wastegate should be set to around 7-10 psi as standard.

Unknown said...

Could I use this turbo on a Vespa gts 125cc?

JD said...

Hello, it should work on a 125cc Vespa but expect a bit of turbo lag before it starts to build boost.

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Folks don't forget about racing safety gear when buying auto racing parts

I have been tuning engines for a long time and with that experience I tend to look a bit more at how other people tune their cars and bikes than anyone else. Now this is not true for everyone, but most of you will recognize yourself at some level.

About 25 years ago the level of tuning an ordinary street car would ever see was at most 30% increase in power. (Not true for every car out there, but I'm talking ordinary street cars here)

So if you had an Ford, Volvo or BMW the amount of power you could get would have been in the 150hp range and in some extreme cases 250hp. At this point this was the "limit" of ordinary naturally aspirated engines at that time. Yes there was a lot of racing going on at that time, and some of these race engines did get put into street cars and power levels would have been 300+ hp. But the amount of maintenance these race engines required and the cost to keep them running were too much for most people.

Back then you could not just go into a racing store and buy yourself a set of forged pistons and connecting rods. Let alone camshafts and valves to build your race engine.

With the introduction of turbochargers however the power suddenly increased to levels that are still uncommon in today’s cars. At the beginning people where not really sure how to tune turbo engines and intercoolers where something that most people had never heard of. Silicone hoses where did you get that?

You would have to know someone in the maintenence department that did service on trucks or busses that had turbocharged Diesel engines at the time to buy the simple things like, clamps, hoses, gaskets, oil lines etc. Even something like an external Wastegate that are availiable almost everywhere now today you could not get your hands on. And something like real drag tires where not that common either.

But as time passed by, engine tuners got their hands on more parts, most that had the machines and tools started to make their own intercoolers, wastegates and all the parts that were hard to get and the knowledge and the tuning business took of.

Now it still took some time before engine management systems and electric fuel injection where you could really start to extract power out of engines became common and figure out how to tune the software to make that work. To start if you found someone who could tune these you would have to fork out serious doe to get everything working. Well you still might have to do that today, and serious race teams do spend alot of money to get the electrical side working right. Today there are so many more things you can do with a powerful ECU, like traction control, different boost pressures for low and high gears, launch control, shiftcut etc.. This list is very long.

But before all that came chip tuning and fuel injected turbo engines. What was unheard of just 20 years ago would now become a reality for anyone with a few minutes of tuning. Some of you might know the story of the Ford RS Cosworth, Nissan Skyline, Audi S1 Quattro, Lancia S4 to name a few and other icons of the late 1980 and early 1990. The turbo engines back then would give you 200hp and that is still today 25 years on about the same power level you would get from a new car. However today this is a common power figure for a station wagon. And back in the 80s only a few racing breed turbo engines would give you that.

But with a few changes to the ECU with chip tuning and some larger fuel injectors all that was needed then was to turn up the boost pressure and 350hp where unleashed. The only real limit here was only how much air the standard turbocharger could supply.

Sure there where different levels of basic tuning you could do but the effect was the same, more power.

With more and more tuner friendly cars coming out over the years the power figures are still holding almost the same. Just until recently where the powerfigures have really started to go up and beyond what was thought possible only a few years ago..

But what have really changed today is the huge amount of DIY tuners out there. What engine tuners did 25 years ago have now entered the garage and racing parts have now become widely available to anyone. From the cheap Chinese made turbo exhaust manifolds to wastegates and almost every tuning part you can think of to the pure racing parts like forged pistons and engine management systems on sale that anyone can buy.

So what has happened is anyone with a little background in mechanics can now build their own race engine. Power levels have just gone up and up and up.. It’s not uncommon to see street cars today with 500hp and then there are the ones who have gone even higher, breaking the 1000hp barrier.

The one thing that all these engines have in common to achieve such power levels are of course the turbocharger. Without the turbo it would not have been possible. Well a supercharger or N02 injection could do the job too but that’s another story.

However time and time again people forget the most important parts when tuning cars. I’m talking about safety and racing safety gear. I do see that people buy racing seats and that’s good. But most of the time they don’t buy racing seats because of the added safety. It’s because they think racing seats look good. And what about things like auto racing helmets that keeps your head intact. Most of the time people come to the track without real racing helmets and if it’s street racing that’s taking place, no one seems to bother wearing any kind of racing helmets at all.

I do understand that people feel protected inside their cars and they don’t think they need roll cages and in some cases opt for roll bars instead but you really need to think about this.

Some of the racing safety gear you should look at are the following:
racing suit
racing shoes
racing helmets
racing gloves

This would be the minimum for my liking if your going on a trackday or similar race day event with your tuned car.

In case you don’t have a fuel cell in your car and there is a chance of fire or fuel leak then you should consider racing fire suits also because these will save your life.

Fire is not to be taken lightly. If you have a good fuel system in place to feed your engine and anyone who are looking for power is going to have that. Then you need to understand that at any given time those racing fuel pumps are pumping 2 gallons of fuel every minute. And if you get a leak and have an accident you are in real trouble if the power to the pumps are not cut right away.

So having the right racing safety gear to protect you is always a good choice. Today’s car are much safer than the ones years ago, but you need to understand that when we double and triple the amount of power and turn our 100mph car into a 200mph fire spitting monster of a car you really, really should spend some time and pick out some racing safety gear also.