Monday, March 28, 2011

Garrett GT28R - GT2854R - 60 TRIM - 270 HP

The Garrett GT2854R Turbocharger is the smallest Garrett turbo in the GT28 Family. The GT2854R looks similar to the GT2554R also because they are very similar turbos and share almost all parts. The only difference between the GT2854R and GT2554R is that the GT2854R has a larger turbine housing and a different turbine wheel.

The GT2554R turbine wheel have 11 blades with a 53 mm major diameter. If you look close at the picture below you can count 11 blades on the turbine wheel.

And the GT2854R have a 9 blade 53.9 mm turbine wheel. If you look at the picture above, you can count 9 blades on the turbine wheel. This all means that the GT2854R turbocharger will give you a little bit of extra power at high RPM's because it will flow a bit more on the exhaust side. The spool will be a little bit later on the GT2854R but not much. The GT2854R turbine housing is also cast from high-nickel "Ni-Resist" material for extreme applications.

Like the GT2554R turbocharger. The Garrett GT2854R turbo will give you 270 HP. It works well with 1400cc to 2200cc engines and will also be a good turbo if you only are looking for 170 HP. It will spool up pretty quick because of ball bearings used in the turbocharger.

Model: 471171-9
CHRA: 446179-47 

Bearing: Ball bearing
Cooling: Oil & Water cooled bearings

Inducer: 42.1 mm
Exducer: 54.3 mm
Trim: 60
A/R 0.80


Because the Garrett GT2854R turbocharger share almost all the same parts as the Garrett GT2554R turbo. Means the oil and water threads are the same for both of them.

Oil inlet 0.4375IN - 24 Thread for 6.35 Tube Inverted flare connection PER SEA J512 Oil inlet
Oil outlet 2 x M8x1.25 13.5 oil outlet 

Water connections thread M14x1.50

I also have more technical pages for you that will come in handy. They will be of great help when looking at compressor maps Use the conversion tools And you will be able to calculate airflow, pressure and HP figures for the turbocharger you are interested in.


Anonymous said...

I'm looking to buy a GT2554 or GT2854. I'm using it on an 82 CID V-Twin motorcycle. I'm confused by the GT2854 turbine map. You state that is has slower response than the GT2554, but the "2854" map starts ar 5 where the "2554" map starts at 8.
It seems the 2854 would build boost sooner. Please explain how this works.
Thank You for the web site and your time

JD said...


Thank you for using my site! I can see how these two turbochargers GT2854R and GT2554R can be confusing. Let me try and explain a bit more. First of all most turbo manufacturers like Garrett don't publish full turbine maps. So we don't get all the curves showing shaft RPM and other info.

Someone else said that the GT2554R and GT2854R curves cross over each other at about 13 pounds on the horizontal scale and 1.81 PR on the vertical scale. To the left of this point is the GT2854R curve and is below the GT2554R and to the right its above. I take that to read slightly more trapping efficiency to the left and slightly less restriction to the right of the crossover point..

Other things like the 9 bladed turbine having slightly less innertia than a 11 bladed one makes a difference as well.

I try to look at what other people running these turbochargers in the real world say about them, so when I say "The spool will be a little bit later on the GT2854R but not much". That's what you should expect.

But really because these two turbochargers are so similar, on a 1.6L Miata engine where both turbochargers had been tested it was reported about a 5% difference. The GT2854R runs very much like the GT2554R but with slightly higher top end power. I can't see you go wrong with either of them, if you can find a Garrett GT2854R or GT2554R for a good price then go for it.

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Good books on Turbocharging and High Power Engine Tuning

Turbo: Real-World High-Performance Turbocharger Systems (S-A Design) Turbochargers HP49 (HP Books): Turbo Design, Sizing & Matching, Spark-Ignition & Diesel Engine Applications, Water Injection, Controls, Carburetion, Intercooling, ... Street & Race Cars, Boats, Motorc Maximum Boost: Designing, Testing, and Installing Turbocharger Systems (Engineering and Performance) Turbocharging Performance Handbook (Motorbooks Workshop) Street TurbochargingHP1488: Design, Fabrication, Installation, and Tuning of High-Performance Street Turbocharger Systems How to Select and Install Turbochargers Supercharging, Turbocharging and Nitrous Oxide Performance (Motorbooks Workshop) How To Supercharge & Turbocharge GM LS-Series Engines (SA Design) Turbochargers (Technical Description and Discussion) Motorcycle Turbocharging, Supercharging, & Nitrous Oxide: A Complete Guide to Forced Induction and its use on Modern Motorcycle Engines Smokey Yunick's Power Secrets Troubleshooting and Repair of Diesel Engines Engine Management: Advanced Tuning Four-Stroke Performance Tuning 3rd ed: A practical guide Two-Stroke Performance Tuning Dyno Testing and Tuning Forced Induction Performance Tuning A Practical Guide to Supercharging and Turbocharging Volkswagen Sport Tuning for Street and Competition: Getting the Best Performance from Your Water-Cooled Volkswagen (Engineering and Performance) Fuel Injection: Installation, Performance Tuning, Modification (Motorbooks International Powerpro) Engine Management: Optimizing Modern Fuel and Ignition Systems (Haynes High-Performance Tuning Series) Two-Stroke Performance Tuning in Theory and Practice Motorcycle Tuning for Performance Building & Tuning High-Performance Electronic Fuel Injection Modern Engine Tuning The Design and Tuning of Competition Engines How to Tune and Modify Engine Management Systems (Motorbooks Workshop) Engine Builder's Handbook Secrets of Speed: Today's Techniques for 4-Stroke Engine Blueprinting & Tuning (Speedpro) Street Rotary HP1549: How to Build Maximum Horsepower & Reliability into Mazda's 12a, 13b & Renesis Engines Xtreme Honda B-Series Engines HP1552: Dyno-Tested Performance Parts Combos, Supercharging, Turbocharging and NitrousOxide--Includes B16A1/2/3 (Civic, Del Sol), B17A (GSR), B18C (GSR), B18C How to Build High-Performance Chevy LS1/LS6 V-8s: Modifying and Tuning Gen III Engines for GM Cars & Pickups (S-A Design) The sports car engine,: Its tuning and modification Tuning Rover V-8 Engines: How to Get Best Performance for Road and Competition Use High-Performance Subaru Builder's Guide: Includes the Impreza, Legacy, Forester, Outback, WRX and STI (S-A Design) Honda/Acura Engine Performance John Lingenfelter on Modifying SB Chevy Engines How to Build, Modify & Power Tune Cylinder Heads Racing Engine Builder's Handbook: How to Build Winning Drag, Circle Track, Marine and Road RacingEngines High-Performance Diesel Builder's Guide (S-A Design) The SU Carburettor High-Performance Manual (Speedpro) Weber Carburetor Manual: Including Zenith, Stromberg and SU Carburetors (Haynes Manuals) Rebuilding and Tuning Fords Kent Crossflow Engine Weber Carburetors (HP Books 774) How to Build Max-Performance Mitsubishi 4G63t Engines (S-A Design) (Performance How-To) Stock Car Racing Engine TechnologyHP1506: Advanced Engine Theory and Design for All Levels of Circle Track Racing Building Honda K-Series Engine Performance (Cartech) Ford Tuning Secrets Revealed (Secrets Revealed series) Ford Sohc pinto & sierra cosworth dohc engines high - performance manual How to Build & Power Tune Weber & Dellorto DCOE & DHLA Carburettors (Speedpro) How to Rebuild and Modify Carter/Edelbrock Carburetors: Performance, Street, and Off-Road Applications Flathead Tuning Manual Hot Rod Horsepower Handbook (Motorbooks Workshop)

Folks don't forget about racing safety gear when buying auto racing parts

I have been tuning engines for a long time and with that experience I tend to look a bit more at how other people tune their cars and bikes than anyone else. Now this is not true for everyone, but most of you will recognize yourself at some level.

About 25 years ago the level of tuning an ordinary street car would ever see was at most 30% increase in power. (Not true for every car out there, but I'm talking ordinary street cars here)

So if you had an Ford, Volvo or BMW the amount of power you could get would have been in the 150hp range and in some extreme cases 250hp. At this point this was the "limit" of ordinary naturally aspirated engines at that time. Yes there was a lot of racing going on at that time, and some of these race engines did get put into street cars and power levels would have been 300+ hp. But the amount of maintenance these race engines required and the cost to keep them running were too much for most people.

Back then you could not just go into a racing store and buy yourself a set of forged pistons and connecting rods. Let alone camshafts and valves to build your race engine.

With the introduction of turbochargers however the power suddenly increased to levels that are still uncommon in today’s cars. At the beginning people where not really sure how to tune turbo engines and intercoolers where something that most people had never heard of. Silicone hoses where did you get that? And real drag tires where not that common either.

But as time passed by, engine tuners got their hands on more parts and knowledge and the tuning business took of.

Now it still took some time before engine management systems where you could really start to extract power out of engines became common. And if you found someone who could tune these you would have to fork out serious doe to get everything working.

Along came chip tuning and turbo engines. What was unheard of just 20 years ago would now become a reality for anyone with a few minutes of tuning. Some of you might know the story of the Ford RS Cosworth, Nissan Skyline, Audi S1 Quattro, Lancia S4 to name a few and other icons of the late 1980 and early 1990. The turbo engines back then would give you 200hp and that is still today 25 years on about the same power level you would get from a new car. However today this is a common power figure for a station wagon. And back in the 80s only a few racing breed turbo engines would give you that.

But with a few changes to the ECU with chip tuning and some larger fuel injectors all that was needed then was to turn up the boost pressure and 350hp where unleashed. The only real limit here was only how much air the standard turbocharger could supply.

Sure there where different levels of basic tuning you could do but the effect was the same, more power.

With more and more tuner friendly cars coming out over the years the power figures are still holding almost the same. But what have changed today is the huge amount of DIY tuners out there. What engine tuners did 25 years ago have now entered the garage and racing parts have now become widely available to anyone. From the cheap Chinese made turbo exhaust manifolds to wastegates and almost every tuning part you can think of to the pure racing parts like forged pistons and engine management systems on sale that anyone can buy.

So what has happened is anyone with a little background in mechanics can now build their own race engine. Power levels have just gone up and up and up.. It’s not uncommon to see street cars today with 500hp and then there are the ones who have gone even higher, breaking the 1000hp barrier.

The one thing that all these engines have in common to achieve such power levels are of course the turbocharger. Without the turbo it would not have been possible. Well I’m sure a supercharger could do the job too but that’s another story.

However time and time again people forget the most important parts when tuning cars. I’m talking about safety and racing safety gear. I do see that people buy racing seats and that’s good. But most of the time they don’t buy racing seats because of the added safety. It’s because they think racing seats look good. And what about things like auto racing helmets that keeps your head intact. Most of the time people come to the track without real racing helmets and if it’s street racing that’s taking place, no one seems to bother wearing any kind of racing helmets at all.

I do understand that people feel protected inside their car and they don’t think they need roll cages and in some cases opt for roll bars instead but you really need to think about this.

Some of the racing safety gear you should look at are the following:
racing suit
racing shoes
racing helmets
racing gloves

In case you don’t have a fuel cell in your car and there is a chance of fire or fuel leak then you should consider racing fire suits also because these will save your life. Fire is not to be taken lightly. If you have a good fuel system in place to feed your engine and anyone who are looking for power is going to have that. Then you need to understand that at any given time those racing fuel pumps are pumping 2 gallons of fuel every minute. And if you get a leak and have an accident you are in real trouble if the power to the pumps are not cut right away.

So having the right racing safety gear to protect you is always a good choice. Today’s car are much safer than the ones years ago, but you need to understand that when we double and triple the amount of power and turn our 100mph car into a 200mph fire spitting monster of a car you really, really should spend some time and pick out some racing safety gear also.