Wednesday, February 9, 2011

Garrett GT22 - GT2259 - 52 TRIM - 280 HP

The Garrett GT2259 is the biggest of the GT22 turbos. Powerlevels of 280 HP can be seen with this turbo. This also means that the GT2259 will give you more power (about 10 HP more) than the smallest Garrett GT25R turbo GT2554R that can push power levels of 270 HP. The Garrett GT2259 also works well down to 160 HP. The GT2259 can use all the GT22 turbine housings. So there are different options for you. Recommended engine size for this GT22 turbo is 1700cc - 2500cc.

Model: 452214-3
CHRA: 451298-9

Bearing: Journal
Cooling: Oil
Inducer: 42.8 mm
Exducer: 59.4 mm
Trim: 52 
A/R 0.42

Wheel: 50.3 mm
Trim: 72
A/R: 0.56
Free Float

Turbine Option
Wheel: 50.3 mm
Trim: 72
A/R: 0.67
Type: Wastegated

We get two options for oil inlet with this Garrett GT22 turbo M10x1.0 (F) or M14x1.0 (M)
And the oil outlet are the same threads used like always M6x1.0

Service Kit
Journal bearing

Retaining ring, jnl/brg
Pin, anti-rotation, jnl/brg
Piston ring, t/end
Thrust bearing
Bolt, seal plate/th brg
Thrust spacer
Piston ring, c/end
O ring, seal plate/brg hsg
Thrust collar
O ring, c/hsg112
Bolt, c/end613
Bolt, t/end 4 16

I also have more technical pages for you that will come in handy. They will be of great help when looking at compressor maps Use the conversion tools And you will be able to calculate airflow, pressure and HP figures for the turbocharger you are interested in.


Arnaldo Perenhas Neto said...

I have a question. I can use a gt2259 in a 14b 3.7L toyota land cruise fj40 ?

JD said...

Hi Arnaldo, Yes the Garrett GT22 should work well with the 3.7 liter 14b Diesel engine. But be aware that because it's an Diesel engine the GT2259 turbocharger is only going to be good for around 125hp at 1.6bar boost max.

Unknown said...

How much bigger of a turbo can you swap on a 2015 subaru wrx with stock internals or is there a way to create more boost with the Garrett MGT2259S that is already installed?

JD said...

Hi for the Subaru engine and the MGT2259S Garrett turbocharger, you could probably get a bit more boost fitting a boost controller and with a good tune and with 20psi / 1.5bar boost the GT22 turbo should give you around 270hp.

That said, there are also billet upgrade compressor wheels that you can fit for the GT15 - GT25 turbos from aftermarket dealers like mambatek. These billet wheels are 49.62 mm and this should give you close to 400hp with the upgraded stock turbo. You would need the stock compressor cover machined from the 42.8 mm inducer size to fit the bigger billet wheel but any good local machine shop should be able to do it.

Unknown said...

I am looking at these imported GT22s

The part numbers cannot be found on google other than the few adds that are similar. Do you know anything about them? Oil cooled center (if reliable) and cheap price are both attractive. Apparently they come on a Nissan that is sold in China and are made by Garrett in China.

JD said...

Hello, I'm not familiar with TurboPark so I can't really give much advice on that particular chinese turbo. But I would say that for the most part the Chinese made turbochargers have come a long way since they first started to pop up. And if you can confirm that the turbocharger use Garrett seals and bearings or that it can be rebuilt with Garrett bearings then it should be just as reliable as any other turbo.

Years ago China did a very poor job at copying turbochargers, like compressor covers that were cast in two pieces and then glued together, the instance the turbo made boost it blew the compressor cover in half.. But today it seems like they have started to learn from their mistakes. And the machines now used making the turbochargers are the same as what Garrett or Holset or any other turbo manufacturer use.

If you still don't like the idea of buying a chinese turbocharger but want to save some money then getting a used Garrett turbo instead is the next best thing. However if it needs a rebuild then expect it to be rebuilt with chinese parts because most journal turbo rebuild kits are sold from China.

Now when it comes to ball bearing turbochargers made in china I would not thrust these yet, these types of turbochargers are so new that China have not caught up yet. If they don't use Garrett ball bearings however then they should be fine. But if they don't and they use their own chinese ball bearings then they might fail.

Tiswal Bachok said...

Hi there quick question what's the best bolt on garrett turbo for a 1.6l car (Lancer cs3) aiming for 300-400hp if possible

Low comp piston
Forged conrod
Cam 272
High performance fuel pump
Fuel regulator
Oil cooler
Performance valve spring

Sorry to sound so noob, coz I am.😬

JD said...

Hello Tiswal, your best option if looking to get closer to 400hp then it would be the Garrett GT2860R turbocharger.

Or if you want a bit faster spool but a bit less power around 350hp then look at the Garrett GT2860RS "Disco Potato" turbo, also check out the video of the 1.6l Honda with this turbocharger in the link

Tiswal Bachok said...

Thanks man really appreciate it

Tom Helleren said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
Tom Helleren said...

Im thinking about upgrading my ML270cdi.
What turbo do i want to use aiming at 280-300hp?

JD said...

Hello Tom, I think your best bet is trying to find a ML 320 CDI turbocharger, those seem to be able to support around 280hp max.

Do not mix up the Garrett labels like GT2259 with GTB VNT turbochargers because they do not share the same exhaust housings, flanges, wastegates etc..

The Garrett GTB2260 turbocharger will give you 250-260hp and you can push them to 280hp. There are also some hybrids that can give you over 300hp like the GTB2260VKLR that use Audi exhaust housings.

Tom Helleren said...

I think easiest option will have to be the 320cdi turbocharger. Is that the one called gt2369v? I read somewhere that these fits bolt on with the om612?

Is there anything else i should upgrade, like hp pump, maf sensor?

This ML are going to be a daily driver... Do you think there is any problem with that?

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Good books on Turbocharging and High Power Engine Tuning

Turbo: Real-World High-Performance Turbocharger Systems (S-A Design) Turbochargers HP49 (HP Books): Turbo Design, Sizing & Matching, Spark-Ignition & Diesel Engine Applications, Water Injection, Controls, Carburetion, Intercooling, ... Street & Race Cars, Boats, Motorc Maximum Boost: Designing, Testing, and Installing Turbocharger Systems (Engineering and Performance) Turbocharging Performance Handbook (Motorbooks Workshop) Street TurbochargingHP1488: Design, Fabrication, Installation, and Tuning of High-Performance Street Turbocharger Systems How to Select and Install Turbochargers Supercharging, Turbocharging and Nitrous Oxide Performance (Motorbooks Workshop) How To Supercharge & Turbocharge GM LS-Series Engines (SA Design) Turbochargers (Technical Description and Discussion) Motorcycle Turbocharging, Supercharging, & Nitrous Oxide: A Complete Guide to Forced Induction and its use on Modern Motorcycle Engines Smokey Yunick's Power Secrets Troubleshooting and Repair of Diesel Engines Engine Management: Advanced Tuning Four-Stroke Performance Tuning 3rd ed: A practical guide Two-Stroke Performance Tuning Dyno Testing and Tuning Forced Induction Performance Tuning A Practical Guide to Supercharging and Turbocharging Volkswagen Sport Tuning for Street and Competition: Getting the Best Performance from Your Water-Cooled Volkswagen (Engineering and Performance) Fuel Injection: Installation, Performance Tuning, Modification (Motorbooks International Powerpro) Engine Management: Optimizing Modern Fuel and Ignition Systems (Haynes High-Performance Tuning Series) Two-Stroke Performance Tuning in Theory and Practice Motorcycle Tuning for Performance Building & Tuning High-Performance Electronic Fuel Injection Modern Engine Tuning The Design and Tuning of Competition Engines How to Tune and Modify Engine Management Systems (Motorbooks Workshop) Engine Builder's Handbook Secrets of Speed: Today's Techniques for 4-Stroke Engine Blueprinting & Tuning (Speedpro) Street Rotary HP1549: How to Build Maximum Horsepower & Reliability into Mazda's 12a, 13b & Renesis Engines Xtreme Honda B-Series Engines HP1552: Dyno-Tested Performance Parts Combos, Supercharging, Turbocharging and NitrousOxide--Includes B16A1/2/3 (Civic, Del Sol), B17A (GSR), B18C (GSR), B18C How to Build High-Performance Chevy LS1/LS6 V-8s: Modifying and Tuning Gen III Engines for GM Cars & Pickups (S-A Design) The sports car engine,: Its tuning and modification Tuning Rover V-8 Engines: How to Get Best Performance for Road and Competition Use High-Performance Subaru Builder's Guide: Includes the Impreza, Legacy, Forester, Outback, WRX and STI (S-A Design) Honda/Acura Engine Performance John Lingenfelter on Modifying SB Chevy Engines How to Build, Modify & Power Tune Cylinder Heads Racing Engine Builder's Handbook: How to Build Winning Drag, Circle Track, Marine and Road RacingEngines High-Performance Diesel Builder's Guide (S-A Design) The SU Carburettor High-Performance Manual (Speedpro) Weber Carburetor Manual: Including Zenith, Stromberg and SU Carburetors (Haynes Manuals) Rebuilding and Tuning Fords Kent Crossflow Engine Weber Carburetors (HP Books 774) How to Build Max-Performance Mitsubishi 4G63t Engines (S-A Design) (Performance How-To) Stock Car Racing Engine TechnologyHP1506: Advanced Engine Theory and Design for All Levels of Circle Track Racing Building Honda K-Series Engine Performance (Cartech) Ford Tuning Secrets Revealed (Secrets Revealed series) Ford Sohc pinto & sierra cosworth dohc engines high - performance manual How to Build & Power Tune Weber & Dellorto DCOE & DHLA Carburettors (Speedpro) How to Rebuild and Modify Carter/Edelbrock Carburetors: Performance, Street, and Off-Road Applications Flathead Tuning Manual Hot Rod Horsepower Handbook (Motorbooks Workshop)

Folks don't forget about racing safety gear when buying auto racing parts

I have been tuning engines for a long time and with that experience I tend to look a bit more at how other people tune their cars and bikes than anyone else. Now this is not true for everyone, but most of you will recognize yourself at some level.

About 25 years ago the level of tuning an ordinary street car would ever see was at most 30% increase in power. (Not true for every car out there, but I'm talking ordinary street cars here)

So if you had an Ford, Volvo or BMW the amount of power you could get would have been in the 150hp range and in some extreme cases 250hp. At this point this was the "limit" of ordinary naturally aspirated engines at that time. Yes there was a lot of racing going on at that time, and some of these race engines did get put into street cars and power levels would have been 300+ hp. But the amount of maintenance these race engines required and the cost to keep them running were too much for most people.

Back then you could not just go into a racing store and buy yourself a set of forged pistons and connecting rods. Let alone camshafts and valves to build your race engine.

With the introduction of turbochargers however the power suddenly increased to levels that are still uncommon in today’s cars. At the beginning people where not really sure how to tune turbo engines and intercoolers where something that most people had never heard of. Silicone hoses where did you get that? And real drag tires where not that common either.

But as time passed by, engine tuners got their hands on more parts and knowledge and the tuning business took of.

Now it still took some time before engine management systems where you could really start to extract power out of engines became common. And if you found someone who could tune these you would have to fork out serious doe to get everything working.

Along came chip tuning and turbo engines. What was unheard of just 20 years ago would now become a reality for anyone with a few minutes of tuning. Some of you might know the story of the Ford RS Cosworth, Nissan Skyline, Audi S1 Quattro, Lancia S4 to name a few and other icons of the late 1980 and early 1990. The turbo engines back then would give you 200hp and that is still today 25 years on about the same power level you would get from a new car. However today this is a common power figure for a station wagon. And back in the 80s only a few racing breed turbo engines would give you that.

But with a few changes to the ECU with chip tuning and some larger fuel injectors all that was needed then was to turn up the boost pressure and 350hp where unleashed. The only real limit here was only how much air the standard turbocharger could supply.

Sure there where different levels of basic tuning you could do but the effect was the same, more power.

With more and more tuner friendly cars coming out over the years the power figures are still holding almost the same. But what have changed today is the huge amount of DIY tuners out there. What engine tuners did 25 years ago have now entered the garage and racing parts have now become widely available to anyone. From the cheap Chinese made turbo exhaust manifolds to wastegates and almost every tuning part you can think of to the pure racing parts like forged pistons and engine management systems on sale that anyone can buy.

So what has happened is anyone with a little background in mechanics can now build their own race engine. Power levels have just gone up and up and up.. It’s not uncommon to see street cars today with 500hp and then there are the ones who have gone even higher, breaking the 1000hp barrier.

The one thing that all these engines have in common to achieve such power levels are of course the turbocharger. Without the turbo it would not have been possible. Well I’m sure a supercharger could do the job too but that’s another story.

However time and time again people forget the most important parts when tuning cars. I’m talking about safety and racing safety gear. I do see that people buy racing seats and that’s good. But most of the time they don’t buy racing seats because of the added safety. It’s because they think racing seats look good. And what about things like auto racing helmets that keeps your head intact. Most of the time people come to the track without real racing helmets and if it’s street racing that’s taking place, no one seems to bother wearing any kind of racing helmets at all.

I do understand that people feel protected inside their car and they don’t think they need roll cages and in some cases opt for roll bars instead but you really need to think about this.

Some of the racing safety gear you should look at are the following:
racing suit
racing shoes
racing helmets
racing gloves

In case you don’t have a fuel cell in your car and there is a chance of fire or fuel leak then you should consider racing fire suits also because these will save your life. Fire is not to be taken lightly. If you have a good fuel system in place to feed your engine and anyone who are looking for power is going to have that. Then you need to understand that at any given time those racing fuel pumps are pumping 2 gallons of fuel every minute. And if you get a leak and have an accident you are in real trouble if the power to the pumps are not cut right away.

So having the right racing safety gear to protect you is always a good choice. Today’s car are much safer than the ones years ago, but you need to understand that when we double and triple the amount of power and turn our 100mph car into a 200mph fire spitting monster of a car you really, really should spend some time and pick out some racing safety gear also.