Wednesday, February 9, 2011

Garrett GT22 - GT2259 - 52 TRIM - 280 HP

The Garrett GT2259 is the biggest of the GT22 turbos. Powerlevels of 280 HP can be seen with this turbo. This also means that the GT2259 will give you more power (about 10 HP more) than the smallest Garrett GT25R turbo GT2554R that can push power levels of 270 HP. The Garrett GT2259 also works well down to 160 HP. The GT2259 can use all the GT22 turbine housings. So there are different options for you. Recommended engine size for this GT22 turbo is 1700cc - 2500cc.

Model: 452214-3
CHRA: 451298-9

Bearing: Journal
Cooling: Oil
Inducer: 42.8 mm
Exducer: 59.4 mm
Trim: 52 
A/R 0.42

Wheel: 50.3 mm
Trim: 72
A/R: 0.56
Free Float

Turbine Option
Wheel: 50.3 mm
Trim: 72
A/R: 0.67
Type: Wastegated

We get two options for oil inlet with this Garrett GT22 turbo M10x1.0 (F) or M14x1.0 (M)
And the oil outlet are the same threads used like always M6x1.0

Service Kit
Journal bearing

Retaining ring, jnl/brg
Pin, anti-rotation, jnl/brg
Piston ring, t/end
Thrust bearing
Bolt, seal plate/th brg
Thrust spacer
Piston ring, c/end
O ring, seal plate/brg hsg
Thrust collar
O ring, c/hsg112
Bolt, c/end613
Bolt, t/end 4 16

I also have more technical pages for you that will come in handy. They will be of great help when looking at compressor maps Use the conversion tools And you will be able to calculate airflow, pressure and HP figures for the turbocharger you are interested in.


Arnaldo Perenhas Neto said...

I have a question. I can use a gt2259 in a 14b 3.7L toyota land cruise fj40 ?

JD said...

Hi Arnaldo, Yes the Garrett GT22 should work well with the 3.7 liter 14b Diesel engine. But be aware that because it's an Diesel engine the GT2259 turbocharger is only going to be good for around 125hp at 1.6bar boost max.

Unknown said...

How much bigger of a turbo can you swap on a 2015 subaru wrx with stock internals or is there a way to create more boost with the Garrett MGT2259S that is already installed?

JD said...

Hi for the Subaru engine and the MGT2259S Garrett turbocharger, you could probably get a bit more boost fitting a boost controller and with a good tune and with 20psi / 1.5bar boost the GT22 turbo should give you around 270hp.

That said, there are also billet upgrade compressor wheels that you can fit for the GT15 - GT25 turbos from aftermarket dealers like mambatek. These billet wheels are 49.62 mm and this should give you close to 400hp with the upgraded stock turbo. You would need the stock compressor cover machined from the 42.8 mm inducer size to fit the bigger billet wheel but any good local machine shop should be able to do it.

Unknown said...

I am looking at these imported GT22s

The part numbers cannot be found on google other than the few adds that are similar. Do you know anything about them? Oil cooled center (if reliable) and cheap price are both attractive. Apparently they come on a Nissan that is sold in China and are made by Garrett in China.

JD said...

Hello, I'm not familiar with TurboPark so I can't really give much advice on that particular chinese turbo. But I would say that for the most part the Chinese made turbochargers have come a long way since they first started to pop up. And if you can confirm that the turbocharger use Garrett seals and bearings or that it can be rebuilt with Garrett bearings then it should be just as reliable as any other turbo.

Years ago China did a very poor job at copying turbochargers, like compressor covers that were cast in two pieces and then glued together, the instance the turbo made boost it blew the compressor cover in half.. But today it seems like they have started to learn from their mistakes. And the machines now used making the turbochargers are the same as what Garrett or Holset or any other turbo manufacturer use.

If you still don't like the idea of buying a chinese turbocharger but want to save some money then getting a used Garrett turbo instead is the next best thing. However if it needs a rebuild then expect it to be rebuilt with chinese parts because most journal turbo rebuild kits are sold from China.

Now when it comes to ball bearing turbochargers made in china I would not thrust these yet, these types of turbochargers are so new that China have not caught up yet. If they don't use Garrett ball bearings however then they should be fine. But if they don't and they use their own chinese ball bearings then they might fail.

Tiswal Bachok said...

Hi there quick question what's the best bolt on garrett turbo for a 1.6l car (Lancer cs3) aiming for 300-400hp if possible

Low comp piston
Forged conrod
Cam 272
High performance fuel pump
Fuel regulator
Oil cooler
Performance valve spring

Sorry to sound so noob, coz I am.😬

JD said...

Hello Tiswal, your best option if looking to get closer to 400hp then it would be the Garrett GT2860R turbocharger.

Or if you want a bit faster spool but a bit less power around 350hp then look at the Garrett GT2860RS "Disco Potato" turbo, also check out the video of the 1.6l Honda with this turbocharger in the link

Tiswal Bachok said...

Thanks man really appreciate it

Tom Helleren said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
Tom Helleren said...

Im thinking about upgrading my ML270cdi.
What turbo do i want to use aiming at 280-300hp?

JD said...

Hello Tom, I think your best bet is trying to find a ML 320 CDI turbocharger, those seem to be able to support around 280hp max.

Do not mix up the Garrett labels like GT2259 with GTB VNT turbochargers because they do not share the same exhaust housings, flanges, wastegates etc..

The Garrett GTB2260 turbocharger will give you 250-260hp and you can push them to 280hp. There are also some hybrids that can give you over 300hp like the GTB2260VKLR that use Audi exhaust housings.

Tom Helleren said...

I think easiest option will have to be the 320cdi turbocharger. Is that the one called gt2369v? I read somewhere that these fits bolt on with the om612?

Is there anything else i should upgrade, like hp pump, maf sensor?

This ML are going to be a daily driver... Do you think there is any problem with that?

JD said...

Hi Tom, I think it's the GT2359v that should be on the 320cdi engine but I'm not sure, because I see that on some engines they even have the GT2056v turbochargers.

So you really need to check and see what you have fitted so you get the right flanges etc.

With a chip alone these engines get 200-220hp and the fuel consumtion goes down. Not sure about the pump, but above 220hp the most common upgrade to get 250hp is to get AMG or Bosio nozzles fitted.

So the turbo and some bigger nozzles is what I would do first to get 250hp. The gearbox if it's a manual won't like much over 250hp so most people stay at this level. But it depends on the torque, the ML270 should hold up to 680nm. If it's an automatic then it should be fine.

David W. said...

I'm trying to run EWGs on this turbo. Is there a way to stop the internal wastegate on the turbo if necessary?

Tom Helleren said...

I have now removed the swirl flaps in the inlet manifold and plugged the holes. My problem now is finding somewhere i can get the nozzles you mentioned. Any chance you can guide me in the right direction?

JD said...

Hello Tom,

I think the correct injectors/nozzles should be the C30 AMG ones. It is possible to use C30 AMG nozzles fitted to your current injectors, but the flow of the injectors should be checked then. It should give you the extra flow needed for what you need however if that is not enough then you can also have them reshimmed as seen in this short video

If you want over 300hp in the future then the best thing would be to go with a set of C30 AMG injectors and upgrade the pump to a 400cdi and 4bar map sensor. And a GT2359 hybrid turbo with bigger compressor would have you making around 350hp.

JD said...

Hi David, some people weld the internal wastegate shut, but if you don't want to do that because there is a risk of cracking you can lock the arm or put a little tack weld on the outside so the arm won't move and open.

If you don't have a welder you can also put a strong spring or tube over the wastegate rod so it locks in place.

Troy Berner said...

I have a 2013 Harley Davidson that has had a TRASK turbo on it for 20,000 plus miles I recently sent the motor in and had it built pretty stout. The turbo they use is what they call a "modified GT22" and from what I can gather its a GT2252 (Totally guessing) but I waould like to see if there is a way to get a little more out of the motor. If my guess is correct and they are using a GT2252 would, should or can I put a GT2259 on it. Or what would you recommend? Would it just be the way its mounted that makes it "modified" and what would be the best way to go when wanting to get a little more out of it. Im running about 180ish horsepower and about the same torque...Id like to just be at the 200 or so...Im not looking to go crazy but just add a little more for more top end. Any ideas or help are appreciated.

Thank you

JD said...

Hi Tory, from what I can tell both turbochargers should give you 200hp around 15 psi boost. That's if your engine can handle that boost and the heads and cams can flow, not sure what compression you have now and if you have an intercooler fitted. But most people though can run 15 psi boost without an intercooler if they are running on E85 fuel. If not done already going E85 is probably easier if it's available than doing either water methanol injection, or fitting an intercooler.

That said the Garret GT2259 and GT2252 turbochargers are very similar, both come with either the same A/R 0.56 or 0.67 turbine housings (the 0.67 housing flow a bit more). But the GT2259 comes with a bigger 42.8 mm inducer vs the GT2252 that have a 40.2 mm inducer.

You should be able to swap the turbos without any modifications, if that "modified GT22" they have fitted isn't different in some way.

Now another turbocharger to consider is the Garrett GT2554R it's 42.1 mm inducer is smaller than the GT2259 but the larger 53mm exducer gives it a little better top end, it might spool a bit slower due to the bigger turbine however because the GT2554r is a ball bearing turbocharger there should not be that much difference in spool, and it might even help keep the boost up during shifts better also.

Mike Sorenson said...

Do you have a archive for 85 dyna 1340 Turbo size and min to max safe boost levels I enjoy the sound of a turbo and am looming to pull good and hard on mountain grades also timing and jetting thank you for offering your knowledge to us that dont know

JD said...

Hi Mike, I would try and keep boost around 10 psi max if you are running 8:1 compression, and a smaller turbo like the GT1548 turbo or similar size would give more low end power.

You would need to back off the ignition 7-10 degrees once boost comes in to around 25 with these engines to avoid knock.

Easiest way to would be to use a Hobbs switch that is boost activated, and run the signal to something like a DYNA 2000i Digital Ignition. That way you can have 30-35 degrees ignition before the turbo kicks in and have the 2000i programmed to take it down to 25 degrees once on boost.

As for fuel the Keihin CV 40 carbs are easy to work with, so you might want to consider that or check out the
Thunder PowerJet

PowerJets can be fitted to most carburetors and they work with turbos, and are quick and easy to adjust.

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Folks don't forget about racing safety gear when buying auto racing parts

I have been tuning engines for a long time and with that experience I tend to look a bit more at how other people tune their cars and bikes than anyone else. Now this is not true for everyone, but most of you will recognize yourself at some level.

About 25 years ago the level of tuning an ordinary street car would ever see was at most 30% increase in power. (Not true for every car out there, but I'm talking ordinary street cars here)

So if you had an Ford, Volvo or BMW the amount of power you could get would have been in the 150hp range and in some extreme cases 250hp. At this point this was the "limit" of ordinary naturally aspirated engines at that time. Yes there was a lot of racing going on at that time, and some of these race engines did get put into street cars and power levels would have been 300+ hp. But the amount of maintenance these race engines required and the cost to keep them running were too much for most people.

Back then you could not just go into a racing store and buy yourself a set of forged pistons and connecting rods. Let alone camshafts and valves to build your race engine.

With the introduction of turbochargers however the power suddenly increased to levels that are still uncommon in today’s cars. At the beginning people where not really sure how to tune turbo engines and intercoolers where something that most people had never heard of. Silicone hoses where did you get that?

You would have to know someone in the maintenence department that did service on trucks or busses that had turbocharged Diesel engines at the time to buy the simple things like, clamps, hoses, gaskets, oil lines etc. Even something like an external Wastegate that are availiable almost everywhere now today you could not get your hands on. And something like real drag tires where not that common either.

But as time passed by, engine tuners got their hands on more parts, most that had the machines and tools started to make their own intercoolers, wastegates and all the parts that were hard to get and the knowledge and the tuning business took of.

Now it still took some time before engine management systems and electric fuel injection where you could really start to extract power out of engines became common and figure out how to tune the software to make that work. To start if you found someone who could tune these you would have to fork out serious doe to get everything working. Well you still might have to do that today, and serious race teams do spend alot of money to get the electrical side working right. Today there are so many more things you can do with a powerful ECU, like traction control, different boost pressures for low and high gears, launch control, shiftcut etc.. This list is very long.

But before all that came chip tuning and fuel injected turbo engines. What was unheard of just 20 years ago would now become a reality for anyone with a few minutes of tuning. Some of you might know the story of the Ford RS Cosworth, Nissan Skyline, Audi S1 Quattro, Lancia S4 to name a few and other icons of the late 1980 and early 1990. The turbo engines back then would give you 200hp and that is still today 25 years on about the same power level you would get from a new car. However today this is a common power figure for a station wagon. And back in the 80s only a few racing breed turbo engines would give you that.

But with a few changes to the ECU with chip tuning and some larger fuel injectors all that was needed then was to turn up the boost pressure and 350hp where unleashed. The only real limit here was only how much air the standard turbocharger could supply.

Sure there where different levels of basic tuning you could do but the effect was the same, more power.

With more and more tuner friendly cars coming out over the years the power figures are still holding almost the same. Just until recently where the powerfigures have really started to go up and beyond what was thought possible only a few years ago..

But what have really changed today is the huge amount of DIY tuners out there. What engine tuners did 25 years ago have now entered the garage and racing parts have now become widely available to anyone. From the cheap Chinese made turbo exhaust manifolds to wastegates and almost every tuning part you can think of to the pure racing parts like forged pistons and engine management systems on sale that anyone can buy.

So what has happened is anyone with a little background in mechanics can now build their own race engine. Power levels have just gone up and up and up.. It’s not uncommon to see street cars today with 500hp and then there are the ones who have gone even higher, breaking the 1000hp barrier.

The one thing that all these engines have in common to achieve such power levels are of course the turbocharger. Without the turbo it would not have been possible. Well a supercharger or N02 injection could do the job too but that’s another story.

However time and time again people forget the most important parts when tuning cars. I’m talking about safety and racing safety gear. I do see that people buy racing seats and that’s good. But most of the time they don’t buy racing seats because of the added safety. It’s because they think racing seats look good. And what about things like auto racing helmets that keeps your head intact. Most of the time people come to the track without real racing helmets and if it’s street racing that’s taking place, no one seems to bother wearing any kind of racing helmets at all.

I do understand that people feel protected inside their cars and they don’t think they need roll cages and in some cases opt for roll bars instead but you really need to think about this.

Some of the racing safety gear you should look at are the following:
racing suit
racing shoes
racing helmets
racing gloves

This would be the minimum for my liking if your going on a trackday or similar race day event with your tuned car.

In case you don’t have a fuel cell in your car and there is a chance of fire or fuel leak then you should consider racing fire suits also because these will save your life.

Fire is not to be taken lightly. If you have a good fuel system in place to feed your engine and anyone who are looking for power is going to have that. Then you need to understand that at any given time those racing fuel pumps are pumping 2 gallons of fuel every minute. And if you get a leak and have an accident you are in real trouble if the power to the pumps are not cut right away.

So having the right racing safety gear to protect you is always a good choice. Today’s car are much safer than the ones years ago, but you need to understand that when we double and triple the amount of power and turn our 100mph car into a 200mph fire spitting monster of a car you really, really should spend some time and pick out some racing safety gear also.