Wednesday, February 9, 2011

Garrett GT22 - GT2252 - 60 TRIM - 260 HP

Garrett GT22 GT2252 Turbocharger picture 1 Honeywell 214x205 

The Garrett GT22 turbocharger comes with two options on turbine housing. One 0.67 A/R and the other 0.56. Both capable of reaching 260 HP. Garrett recommends this turbo to be used on engine sizes ranging from 1700cc - 2500cc. This GT2252 turbocharger is the smaller of the GT22 family and works well down to 150 HP. The biggest GT22 turbocharger GT2259 however will give you an additional 20 HP over this one.

Model: 452187-6
CHRA: 451298-6

Bearing: Journal
Cooling: Oil

Inducer: 40.2 mm
Exducer: 52.0 mm
Trim: 60 
A/R 0.51

Turbine Option 1
Wheel: 50.3 mm
Trim: 72
A/R: 0.67

Turbine Option 2
Wheel: 50.3 mm
Trim: 72
A/R: 0.56

Oil inlet on the GT22 turbocharger is M10x1.0 and the outlet threads are M6x1.0.
The Garrett GT2252 turbocharger have no watercooling.

Service Kit
Journal bearing

Retaining ring, jnl/brg
Pin, anti-rotation, jnl/brg
Piston ring, t/end
Thrust bearing
Bolt, seal plate/th brg
Thrust spacer
Piston ring, c/end
O ring, seal plate/brg hsg
Thrust collar
O ring, c/hsg112
Bolt, c/end613
Bolt, t/end 4 16

I also have more technical pages for you that will come in handy. They will be of great help when looking at compressor maps Use the conversion tools And you will be able to calculate airflow, pressure and HP figures for the turbocharger you are interested in.


Captain Kplunk said...

Please could you help identify my turbo - I believe it is similar to this!

On the casing of the compressor housing is:
4891639 702989-3

Googling that, shows its a GT2259s (i think) fitted to diesel trucks 3.5L making 160bhp or so.

The hot side has stampings:
BG1 (or maybe 8G1)
A/R .56

I was sold the turbo on the basis it was a GT2259 that could run upto 280bhp.
Please could you help? Doesn't look like Garrett make it anymore as info hard to come by.

JD said...

Hello Phill, about your GT22 turbo you need to remember that Diesel engines need more airflow to run. Almost twice the air is needed to make the same power as petrol engines.

So in theory if that GT22 turbocharger you have can provide airflow for a Diesel to make 160 hp, it should be able to give you around 300-320 hp on a petrol engine.

So in short 280bhp should be possible. You can also confirm this and measure the Inducer size, that's 40.2 mm for the GT2252. If it's bigger or around the same for your GT22 turbo then you know for sure it will be able to make the power.


Unknown said...

What turbo would u recommend 4 3rz 2.7 Toyota?

JD said...

Hello, the Toyota 2.7 liter 3RZ engines can use bigger turbos if you like. And they are very strong in stock form if you don't over rev them. I would look at the 62 TRIM Garrett GT2860R turbocharger or the Garrett GT2860RS (disco turbo).

Both would give you a solid 300hp with 15 psi / 1 bar boost. Or if you push the 62 trim GT2860R to 20 psi / 1.5 bar boost you could get around 350hp. Power should start to come in around 3000rpm and hold all the way to 5-6000rpm with that setup.

If you want a bit faster spool then the Garrett GT2560R turbo is a good choice, but it being a bit smaller than the rest around 300hp is about the best you can expect with the same boost pressures.

joshicraney22 said...

How would this turbo fair on a 2.8 litre Toyota old school diesel? Hoping to run 7-10 psi

JD said...

Hello joshicraney22, if it's the 2.8 Toyota L type engines then you should be able to get around 150-170hp with this turbo and boost pressures levels around 7-10 psi.

Support Alphacompanyformations said...

WHi, what is the best turbo would you recommend for a bmw 530d (diesel) 2004 mod estate?

Robert said...

I am looking to set up a small twin turbo setup on a Ford 4.6l 32v modular motor. Goals are ~7 PSI and ~500 HP with boost building as early as possible. Airflow should be ~50lb/min.

The GT2252 seems to fit the bill, unless I am missing something in my calculations. Any input on this sizing or suggestion for better alternative?

JD said...

Hello Robert, the GT2252 would be a good turbo and give you the air flow you need with 7 psi boost. Another turbocharger you can look at is the GT2056, this one have a little bit smaller 47mm turbine housing vs the 50.3mm housing the GT2252 have, so it will give you a bit faster spool and still give you the air flow you need at around 7 psi boost.

However on bigger engines if you are looking more for top end power and have a high revving engine then it's better to go with a bit bigger turbine housing because a small turbine housing might start to restrict the exhaust flow at higher rpms.

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Folks don't forget about racing safety gear when buying auto racing parts

I have been tuning engines for a long time and with that experience I tend to look a bit more at how other people tune their cars and bikes than anyone else. Now this is not true for everyone, but most of you will recognize yourself at some level.

About 25 years ago the level of tuning an ordinary street car would ever see was at most 30% increase in power. (Not true for every car out there, but I'm talking ordinary street cars here)

So if you had an Ford, Volvo or BMW the amount of power you could get would have been in the 150hp range and in some extreme cases 250hp. At this point this was the "limit" of ordinary naturally aspirated engines at that time. Yes there was a lot of racing going on at that time, and some of these race engines did get put into street cars and power levels would have been 300+ hp. But the amount of maintenance these race engines required and the cost to keep them running were too much for most people.

Back then you could not just go into a racing store and buy yourself a set of forged pistons and connecting rods. Let alone camshafts and valves to build your race engine.

With the introduction of turbochargers however the power suddenly increased to levels that are still uncommon in today’s cars. At the beginning people where not really sure how to tune turbo engines and intercoolers where something that most people had never heard of. Silicone hoses where did you get that?

You would have to know someone in the maintenence department that did service on trucks or busses that had turbocharged Diesel engines at the time to buy the simple things like, clamps, hoses, gaskets, oil lines etc. Even something like an external Wastegate that are availiable almost everywhere now today you could not get your hands on. And something like real drag tires where not that common either.

But as time passed by, engine tuners got their hands on more parts, most that had the machines and tools started to make their own intercoolers, wastegates and all the parts that were hard to get and the knowledge and the tuning business took of.

Now it still took some time before engine management systems and electric fuel injection where you could really start to extract power out of engines became common and figure out how to tune the software to make that work. To start if you found someone who could tune these you would have to fork out serious doe to get everything working. Well you still might have to do that today, and serious race teams do spend alot of money to get the electrical side working right. Today there are so many more things you can do with a powerful ECU, like traction control, different boost pressures for low and high gears, launch control, shiftcut etc.. This list is very long.

But before all that came chip tuning and fuel injected turbo engines. What was unheard of just 20 years ago would now become a reality for anyone with a few minutes of tuning. Some of you might know the story of the Ford RS Cosworth, Nissan Skyline, Audi S1 Quattro, Lancia S4 to name a few and other icons of the late 1980 and early 1990. The turbo engines back then would give you 200hp and that is still today 25 years on about the same power level you would get from a new car. However today this is a common power figure for a station wagon. And back in the 80s only a few racing breed turbo engines would give you that.

But with a few changes to the ECU with chip tuning and some larger fuel injectors all that was needed then was to turn up the boost pressure and 350hp where unleashed. The only real limit here was only how much air the standard turbocharger could supply.

Sure there where different levels of basic tuning you could do but the effect was the same, more power.

With more and more tuner friendly cars coming out over the years the power figures are still holding almost the same. Just until recently where the powerfigures have really started to go up and beyond what was thought possible only a few years ago..

But what have really changed today is the huge amount of DIY tuners out there. What engine tuners did 25 years ago have now entered the garage and racing parts have now become widely available to anyone. From the cheap Chinese made turbo exhaust manifolds to wastegates and almost every tuning part you can think of to the pure racing parts like forged pistons and engine management systems on sale that anyone can buy.

So what has happened is anyone with a little background in mechanics can now build their own race engine. Power levels have just gone up and up and up.. It’s not uncommon to see street cars today with 500hp and then there are the ones who have gone even higher, breaking the 1000hp barrier.

The one thing that all these engines have in common to achieve such power levels are of course the turbocharger. Without the turbo it would not have been possible. Well a supercharger or N02 injection could do the job too but that’s another story.

However time and time again people forget the most important parts when tuning cars. I’m talking about safety and racing safety gear. I do see that people buy racing seats and that’s good. But most of the time they don’t buy racing seats because of the added safety. It’s because they think racing seats look good. And what about things like auto racing helmets that keeps your head intact. Most of the time people come to the track without real racing helmets and if it’s street racing that’s taking place, no one seems to bother wearing any kind of racing helmets at all.

I do understand that people feel protected inside their cars and they don’t think they need roll cages and in some cases opt for roll bars instead but you really need to think about this.

Some of the racing safety gear you should look at are the following:
racing suit
racing shoes
racing helmets
racing gloves

This would be the minimum for my liking if your going on a trackday or similar race day event with your tuned car.

In case you don’t have a fuel cell in your car and there is a chance of fire or fuel leak then you should consider racing fire suits also because these will save your life.

Fire is not to be taken lightly. If you have a good fuel system in place to feed your engine and anyone who are looking for power is going to have that. Then you need to understand that at any given time those racing fuel pumps are pumping 2 gallons of fuel every minute. And if you get a leak and have an accident you are in real trouble if the power to the pumps are not cut right away.

So having the right racing safety gear to protect you is always a good choice. Today’s car are much safer than the ones years ago, but you need to understand that when we double and triple the amount of power and turn our 100mph car into a 200mph fire spitting monster of a car you really, really should spend some time and pick out some racing safety gear also.