Monday, February 7, 2011

Garrett GT20 - GT2052 - 52 TRIM - 225 HP

This is the second biggest (power wise) GT20 Garrett turbocharger, it's a 225 HP turbo and the recommended engine size for this turbo is 1400cc to 2000cc. It works well if you're looking for 140 HP also. 

There are many different verions of the Garrett GT20 turbo. There are two different model numbers that I am going to show here with the only difference is that the turbos have different mounting angles. But everything else is the same.

Model: 727264-1 and 2
CHRA: 451298-43

Bearing: Journal 
Cooling: Oil
Inducer: 37.6 mm
Exducer: 52.2 mm
Trim: 52
A/R 0.51

Wheel: 47.0 mm
Trim: 72
A/R: 0.50

The oil inlet thread is M10x1.0 and the oil outlet threads are M6x1.0. This turbo is not watercooled.

Service Kit
Journal bearing

Retaining ring, jnl/brg
Pin, anti-rotation, jnl/brg
Piston ring, t/end
Thrust bearing
Bolt, seal plate/th brg
Thrust spacer
Piston ring, c/end
O ring, seal plate/brg hsg
Thrust collar
O ring, c/hsg112
Bolt, c/end613
Bolt, t/end 4 16

I also have more technical pages for you that will come in handy. They will be of great help when looking at compressor maps Use the conversion tools And you will be able to calculate airflow, pressure and HP figures for the turbocharger you are interested in.


Anonymous said...

hi mate just wondering if this is the turbo for the zd30 navara?

JD said...

Hello there, I can only find that the Nissan zd30 Navara use an HT12-19D Hitachi turbocharger that is a bit bigger than the Garrett GT2052 turbocharger.
The inducer Diameter is bigger than the Garrett GT20 with 40.94 mm.
And the Exducer Diameter is 53.72 mm. The Hitachi is also an 58 trim turbo.

The other things that differ from the Garrett GT20 turbocharger is that the Hitachi HT12 turbo use a 3 bolt flange on both the compressor and exhaust housing. So if you still want to use an GT20 turbocharger you would need to make an adapter plate to make the thing fit to the exhaust manifold.

Anonymous said...

Would this fit a 02 a4 2.5 tdi ? I'm looking for an upgrade from the standard turbo

JD said...


It all depends on what turbocharger your Audi is fitted with already. If your 2.5 tdi engine is fitted with the Garrett GTB2260VK turbocharger then it is a larger turbo than the Garrett GT2052 turbo.

The GTB2260VK turbo have a 44.5mm inducer and support around 310 hp if you can get 35 psi (2.5 bar) boost pressure. However even the smaller (36mm inducer) GTB17 turbochargers found support 200 hp. So even if you have one of the smaller turbos fitted to your Audi Turbo Diesel, the GT2052 turbocharger would not be much of an upgrade for you.

Can't give much advice not knowing what turbocharger you already have but for an upgrade you really should need to look at the Garrett GT25 or GT28 turbochargers also, however these won't fit without changes made to your exhaust downpipe etc.

There is also a Garrett GTB2566VK Billet Hybrid Turbocharger made that use a 50mm compressor wheel and compressor cover that support 340 hp, this is also a good option for an upgrade with minimal modifications to the engine.

Anonymous said...

I have a 1999 2.9d 5 cyl 310D sprinter motorhome conversion. reg no T32 LTV
the numbers on the alloy tag on the garret turbo are;
I am struggling to get a recon turbo can you tell me what I have and what I need /will fit?
someone said my engine was the 122bhp model but im not sure,
many thanks, Brent
my e mail is

JD said...

Hello Brent, it looks like you have a Garrett GT20C turbocharger from the number (A6020960899) you gave me. These turbos can be found in Sprinters all the way back to 1995 up to 2006. I think the main thing that can be different is the exhaust housing so make sure the exhaust housings match with the replacement turbocharger.

Brand-new Garrett GT20S (A6020960899) turbocharger for sale for £480.55 (link below)

Exhange GT20C turbocharger half the price for £220.00 (link below)

This should fit your motorhome if the numbers provided are correct with the engine Mecedes Benz Sprinter 2,9 TD 75kw 102Ps 85kw 115Ps 90kw 122Ps

OEM MB numbers: A6020960199, A6020960699 A6020960899, 6020901380, 6020960199, 6020960699 6020960899, 602096089980

Garrett numbers: 454111-0001, 4541110001 454184-0001 4541840001, 454207-0001, 4542070001 454207-5001S, 4542075001S

Mercedes Benz
Mercedes-Benz Sprinter 2-T Bus 901, 902 210 D 1997/03-2000/04 2874 ccm, 75 KW, 102 PS
Mercedes-Benz Sprinter 2-T Bus 901, 902 212 D 1995/02-2000/04 2874 ccm, 90 KW, 122 PS
Mercedes-Benz Sprinter 2-T Kasten 901, 902 210 D 1997/01-2000/04 2874 ccm, 75 KW, 102 PS
Mercedes-Benz Sprinter 2-T Kasten 901, 902 212 D 1995/02-2000/04 2874 ccm, 90 KW, 122 PS
Mercedes-Benz Sprinter 2-T Pritsche/Fahrgestell 901, 902 210 D 1997/01-2000/04 2874 ccm, 75 KW, 102 PS
Mercedes-Benz Sprinter 2-T Pritsche/Fahrgestell 901, 902 212 D 1995/02-2000/04 2874 ccm, 90 KW, 122 PS
Mercedes-Benz Sprinter 3-T Bus 903 310 D 4x4 1997/05-2002/08 2874 ccm, 75 KW, 102 PS
Mercedes-Benz Sprinter 3-T Bus 903 312 D 2.9 1995/02-2000/04 2874 ccm, 90 KW, 122 PS
Mercedes-Benz Sprinter 3-T Bus 903 312 D 2.9 4x4 1997/05-2002/08 2874 ccm, 90 KW, 122 PS
Mercedes-Benz Sprinter 3-T Kasten 903 310 D 2.9 1995/02-2000/04 2874 ccm, 75 KW, 102 PS
Mercedes-Benz Sprinter 3-T Kasten 903 312 D 2.9 1995/02-2000/04 2874 ccm, 90 KW, 122 PS
Mercedes-Benz Sprinter 3-T Kasten 903 312 D 2.9 4x4 1997/05-2002/08 2874 ccm, 90 KW, 122 PS
Mercedes-Benz Sprinter 3-T Pritsche/Fahrgestell 903 310 D 2.9 1997/01-2000/04 2874 ccm, 75 KW, 102 PS

Mercedes-Benz Sprinter 3-T Pritsche/Fahrgestell 903 312 D 2.9 1995/02-2000/04 2874 ccm, 90 KW, 122 PS
Mercedes-Benz Sprinter 4-T Kasten 904 410 D 1996/02-2006/05 2874 ccm, 75 KW, 102 PS
Mercedes-Benz Sprinter 4-T Kasten 904 410 D 4x4 1997/05-2006/05 2874 ccm, 75 KW, 102 PS
Mercedes-Benz Sprinter 4-T Kasten 904 412 D 1996/02-2006/05 2874 ccm, 85 KW, 115 PS
Mercedes-Benz Sprinter 4-T Kasten 904 412 D 1996/02-2006/05 2874 ccm, 90 KW, 122 PS
Mercedes-Benz Sprinter 4-T Kasten 904 412 D 4x4 1997/05-2006/05 2874 ccm, 85 KW, 115 PS
Mercedes-Benz Sprinter 4-T Kasten 904 412 D 4x4 1997/05-2006/05 2874 ccm, 90 KW, 122 PS
Mercedes-Benz Sprinter 4-T Pritsche/Fahrgestell 904 410 D 1996/02-2006/05 2874 ccm, 75 KW, 102 PS
Mercedes-Benz Sprinter 4-T Pritsche/Fahrgestell 904 410 D 4x4 1997/05-2006/05 2874 ccm, 75 KW, 102 PS
Mercedes-Benz Sprinter 4-T Pritsche/Fahrgestell 904 412 D 1996/02-2006/05 2874 ccm, 85 KW, 115 PS
Mercedes-Benz Sprinter 4-T Pritsche/Fahrgestell 904 412 D 1996/02-2006/05 2874 ccm, 90 KW, 122 PS
Mercedes-Benz Sprinter 4-T Pritsche/Fahrgestell 904 412 D 4x4 1997/05-2006/05 2874 ccm, 85 KW, 115 PS
Mercedes-Benz Sprinter 4-T Pritsche/Fahrgestell 904 412 D 4x4 1997/05-2006/05 2874 ccm, 90 KW, 122 PS

Hope this helps you out!

VR6 said...

Will this work for a MK5 GTi?

JD said...

Hi, the Golf MK5 GTi turbochargers have the turbocharger turbine housings and exhaust manifolds cast as one piece. So any aftermarket turbocharger won't be a direct fit for the Golf GTi engine. You would need at the least an aftermarket exhaust manifold made to fit the new turbo along with the first section of the exhaust pipe (because it looks like the GTi turbo have it's own different flange for the turbine outlet too).

Jhonny Rodriguez said...

Amigo tengo una camioneta China Chery h5 con turbo garrett modelo GT20 (484b-1118010ba) motor 2.0 4cilindros 16v. Para optimizarlo que turbo le podrĂ­a montar? Para que tenga fuerza o velocidad gracias.

JD said...

Hi Jhonny, like with most China turbochargers they don't show you any compressor maps. And when you can't get the flow rate and pressure rates for a turbocharger that makes it very hard to figure out how it will perform on a engine.

Luke Chapman said...

Currently running a GT2052LS on my MG. Was wondering if the GT2052V would be much on an upgrade if its variable vane would help increase boost? It is a 1.8 petrol. I would like to keep the same flanges as ive just had an exhaust made for it

Any advice you could offer on gt2052ls upgrades would be much appreciated

JD said...

Hi Luke, you wont seen an increase in boost with only switching from the GT2052LS to the variable vane GT2052V turbocharger. What you can expect from the varible vane turbocharger is that it comes on boost a bit sooner, so you will have a wider powerband with the variable vane turbo.

It looks like the GT2052SL turbocharger have a 38.3mm compressor wheel, and that means it will flow a bit more air than the common GT2052 shown here that have a 37.6mm inducer. But I don't think you would see much gains in running over 1.6bar of boost and it will probably give you 245 hp at best. Anything over 1.5bar on the compressor map for the smaller 37.6mm inducer turbo won't give any gains in airflow and that's maxed out at 225 hp.

Now the next step up is the 41.5mm inducer GT2056 turbocharger, and it will allow you to run over 2bar boost and give around 260 hp if your engine can support it. However the turbine outlet on the bigger GT2056 is of a 4 bolt style so your exhaust wont fit.

Perhaps you can find someone that can make you a hybrid turbocharger with the 41.5mm compressor and wheel from the GT2056 turbocharger and using the variable vane GT2052V. That would be the best of two worlds and you could keep all your current exhaust parts.

Anonymous said...

I have Renault laguna II 1.9dci f9q engine.
I have this turbo
I was wondering to upgrade to this:
or to this:
What is better solution for upgrade? Because i want more air. currently i have 1.4bar boost and it is maximum what it can take i think.
Can you tell me more about my turbo because i cant find right compresor map for it because it is ar0.42 and i only find 0.46 map on the internet.

JD said...

The GT1752 Garrett Turbochargers came stock with the Saab 9-3 and 9-5s, it's not a big turbo (38.6mm inducer) but the GT1752 have been known to make around 240hp on 2 liter Saab engines.

I would not recommend the GT2052 turbocharger for you it actually have a smaller 37.6mm inducer so it won't give you more airflow and it also maxes out around 1.4-1.5 bar boost.

The Garrett GT2056 turbocharger however have a bigger 41.5 mm inducer and flow much more air and supports 260hp but if you have a good engine and intercooler and can push it to 2 bar boost then close to 300hp from the GT2056 turbocharger is possible.

Unknown said...

I have a renault trafic 1.9 dci with GT1549S running 1.2 bar pressure. I want to go s litle further, so, how much can this tutbo handle? 1.4, 1.5bar?

JD said...

Hello, you can run the GT15 turbocharger to around 1.4 bar boost. You won't see much gain over that and 1.5 bar boost is max.

Looking at the compressor map in the link we can see that around 1.3-1.4 bar boost gives the most airflow / HP and is best for the Garrett GT15 turbocharger.

Petrus Van Der Merwe said...

Hey got a uno turbo 1.4 what propper size turbo can I put on for real performance(

Petrus Van Der Merwe said...

I can get a gt2052 what kw will I put out on the wheels??????

Petrus Van Der Merwe said...

I can get a gt2052 what kw will I put out on the wheels??????

Petrus Van Der Merwe said...

Hey got a uno turbo 1.4 what propper size turbo can I put on for real performance(

JD said...

Hello Petrus, you would probably see around 130kw at the wheels with the Garrett GT2052 turbocharger with around 1.3bar boost.

Eduardo Rocha said...

Hello, I have a gt20s on a mercedes om611.960 cdi engine. Its making 1.35bar, should i replace it with a gt25s if i switch injectors, because this are maxed out?

Eduardo Rocha said...

I mean gt2052s (wastegate turbo)

Unknown said...

Hello buddy
I have peugeot 406 D9
Petrol valve 4 / 16 1.998 cc 132 PS (97 kW; 130 hp) / 5.500 180 N·m (130 lb·ft) / 4.200

Which one turbo garrett good one i choose man thanks before

Veysel Yilmaz said...

I have this turbo fitted to my 2009 alfa romeo 147 1.9 ltd 16v q2.

How much more can I go with this turbo?

It's peak is 1.55 bar and starting to spool from 2100 rpm and peak comes at 3000. Power we get was 206 hp before I installed cai kit and hg motorsports 8 liters intercooler as we calculated by racebox Dbn. It must be around 210 hp we guess. What's the limit I can push for more power?

JD said...

Hi Veysel, it looks to me it's your engine is what's limiting power for you now. At 1.55bar boost the GT2052 turbo can flow around 200hp and a good intercooler gives a little more power like you say. However at around 1bar the GT2052 is more efficient and can flow around 225-230hp. I would recommend you port the cylinder head or fit bigger cams if that's the case, this would allow the GT2052 to work more efficiently and give you more power. Or because the GT2052 turbocharger already is at it's limit you could always fit a bigger turbo that's more efficient at 1.5bar for even more power. That way you would not have to port or fit better cams to the engine to get more power.

elias aarni said...

Hi, is there t3 flange turbine housing that fits gt2052v? I have b19et volvo engine that has original to3 garrett, and I want something that wakes up earlier, looking for 180-200 hp. I want to keep the engine bay looking clean, (not neccesary stock) so the gt2052v would be perfect cause it has big volvo text casted on compressor housing.
Br. Elias Aarni

JD said...

Hi Elias, considering the old Garrett T3 Turbochargers flow 300-330hp and the bigger T34 turbos around 370hp, the turbine housing from those would not be the best if you are looking for 180-200hp with good spool. Instead I would recommend you find a Garrett GT15 or GT20 turbo, and then fit a T25 to T3 adapter flange on your manifold. That would give you the best spool and power.


You can find these types of T25 to T3 adaptors in cast or stainless steel. But if you want to match your cast mainfold and turbo you could use the cast adaptor shown in the link.

Anthony Kiem said...

Hello there
I have a Nissan GU patio with an RD28t engine fitted. I'm looking to increase hp from standard 115 to 150/200 mainly for towing and better hill speed maintainability. I'm a bit confused as to what size turbomi should be looking at. I was thinking the gt2052 ?

JD said...

Hi Anthony, I think the GT2052 turbocharger would be too small for your RD28 engine to get 150 hp from that turbo. The Nissan RD28t engines have a very high compression ratio around 21:1 and need more air. That means the bigger Garrett GT2560 turbo is probably going to give you closer to 150hp and be good for towing.

Above 150hp and you should be looking at the GT2860RS turbo but going that big you are also losing low end power, and that would not be good for towing.

However there is also a better solution if you do compound turbocharging, where you keep your current turbocharger in place and mount a second bigger turbo like a GT28 that boosts the overall performance.

The reason I think you need to go much bigger is a normal car engine with 8:1 compression and the GT2560r is going to give around to 330hp. But scale that up to say 16:1 compression (twice the air is needed) and the same GT2560 turbo theoretically is only going to be able to supply air for 165hp.

It's not really that simple and many different factors come into play, but it's a quick way to figure out the size of the turbo needed. Some engines are more efficient and do well with smaller turbos.

Unknown said...

Hey guys iv got a 2003 nissan patrol gt2052v and looking at putting in a gtx-11 wheel, what size exhaust wheel would suit this compressor wheel of gtx-11. Alot of machining of the housing will be needed but just wondering what wheel would compliment. Im looking for 30psi and above. Or is there a simplier way? Have a modified head and everything else is done besides turbo. Dont particurly want to go away from variable vane if possible

JD said...

Hi, The general rule of thumb is you would want roughly the same size inducer as the turbine wheel size. But this depends on how much the compressor wheel is able to flow vs how much the turbine wheel is able to flow.

Simply you need to be able to get the same air you put in out, and if you can't do that you end up with high backpressure and unable to run the boost you want. Or in worst case you get compressor surge.

Most times the compressor wheel is able to flow more air than the same size turbine wheel so that's why you normally see on Garrett turbochargers that the exhaust is a bit bigger.

Looking at the Garrett GTX3071R turbo the numbers look like this
* Compressor Wheel Inducer: 54.1mm
* Compressor Wheel Exducer: 71.4mm
* Turbine Wheel Inducer: 60.0mm
* Turbine Wheel Exducer: 55.0mm

And the bigger Garrett GTX3076R turbocharger
Compressor Wheel Inducer: 58mm
Compressor Wheel Exducer: 76mm
Turbine Wheel Inducer: 60mm
Turbine Wheel Exducer: 55mm

Looking at this it's good to have a few mm bigger turbine to be on the safe side. But it's not set in stone.

Unknown said...

I have a gt2025v off of a 2.8l jeep crd and I was wondering about installing it on my air cooled VW 1600cc engine. The engine makes 40hp to the wheels, I am in colorado at 5000ft altitude I was told to look into a gt15 or gt1752 instead. also been told the vfn does not work well on gas engines? can you clear any of this up for me. I know I am limited to 6-6.5lbs boost due to compression and valve springs. this engine has max rpm of 5500. any help tips or advice? looking for about 100hp at the wheels.

Jeffery Buchan said...

The turbo is a gt2056v not gt2052v.

JD said...

Hello Jeffery, well if you are limited to around 6 psi boost and also at a this high altitude, then the Garrett GT1548 turbocharger is much better if you are looking for 100hp.

I'm sure the GT2056v could work, and give you 100hp at the same boost levels, however it's still a much bigger turbo and if you are only going to rev to 5500rpm then the powerband will be much smaller with the GT20 vs the GT15 turbo.

However both the GT1548 and GT2056 turbochargers share the same T25 flanges, only the exhaust flange is a bit different so I guess you could try both turbochargers with some minor modifications to the exhaust if you feel like it.

If you have a Diesel Variable-geometry turbocharger then it can work on gas engines, and spool faster, but heat is a big problem. Diesels run cooler and exhaust temperatures are much lower than on gas engines and this is what kills the variable turbochargers.

But in the end it comes down to how hard you drive the turbocharger and how much time you are on boost, if you make a mental note that you need to give the turbo some time to cool down between "full boost" runs then they might last much longer.

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Folks don't forget about racing safety gear when buying auto racing parts

I have been tuning engines for a long time and with that experience I tend to look a bit more at how other people tune their cars and bikes than anyone else. Now this is not true for everyone, but most of you will recognize yourself at some level.

About 25 years ago the level of tuning an ordinary street car would ever see was at most 30% increase in power. (Not true for every car out there, but I'm talking ordinary street cars here)

So if you had an Ford, Volvo or BMW the amount of power you could get would have been in the 150hp range and in some extreme cases 250hp. At this point this was the "limit" of ordinary naturally aspirated engines at that time. Yes there was a lot of racing going on at that time, and some of these race engines did get put into street cars and power levels would have been 300+ hp. But the amount of maintenance these race engines required and the cost to keep them running were too much for most people.

Back then you could not just go into a racing store and buy yourself a set of forged pistons and connecting rods. Let alone camshafts and valves to build your race engine.

With the introduction of turbochargers however the power suddenly increased to levels that are still uncommon in today’s cars. At the beginning people where not really sure how to tune turbo engines and intercoolers where something that most people had never heard of. Silicone hoses where did you get that?

You would have to know someone in the maintenence department that did service on trucks or busses that had turbocharged Diesel engines at the time to buy the simple things like, clamps, hoses, gaskets, oil lines etc. Even something like an external Wastegate that are availiable almost everywhere now today you could not get your hands on. And something like real drag tires where not that common either.

But as time passed by, engine tuners got their hands on more parts, most that had the machines and tools started to make their own intercoolers, wastegates and all the parts that were hard to get and the knowledge and the tuning business took of.

Now it still took some time before engine management systems and electric fuel injection where you could really start to extract power out of engines became common and figure out how to tune the software to make that work. To start if you found someone who could tune these you would have to fork out serious doe to get everything working. Well you still might have to do that today, and serious race teams do spend alot of money to get the electrical side working right. Today there are so many more things you can do with a powerful ECU, like traction control, different boost pressures for low and high gears, launch control, shiftcut etc.. This list is very long.

But before all that came chip tuning and fuel injected turbo engines. What was unheard of just 20 years ago would now become a reality for anyone with a few minutes of tuning. Some of you might know the story of the Ford RS Cosworth, Nissan Skyline, Audi S1 Quattro, Lancia S4 to name a few and other icons of the late 1980 and early 1990. The turbo engines back then would give you 200hp and that is still today 25 years on about the same power level you would get from a new car. However today this is a common power figure for a station wagon. And back in the 80s only a few racing breed turbo engines would give you that.

But with a few changes to the ECU with chip tuning and some larger fuel injectors all that was needed then was to turn up the boost pressure and 350hp where unleashed. The only real limit here was only how much air the standard turbocharger could supply.

Sure there where different levels of basic tuning you could do but the effect was the same, more power.

With more and more tuner friendly cars coming out over the years the power figures are still holding almost the same. Just until recently where the powerfigures have really started to go up and beyond what was thought possible only a few years ago..

But what have really changed today is the huge amount of DIY tuners out there. What engine tuners did 25 years ago have now entered the garage and racing parts have now become widely available to anyone. From the cheap Chinese made turbo exhaust manifolds to wastegates and almost every tuning part you can think of to the pure racing parts like forged pistons and engine management systems on sale that anyone can buy.

So what has happened is anyone with a little background in mechanics can now build their own race engine. Power levels have just gone up and up and up.. It’s not uncommon to see street cars today with 500hp and then there are the ones who have gone even higher, breaking the 1000hp barrier.

The one thing that all these engines have in common to achieve such power levels are of course the turbocharger. Without the turbo it would not have been possible. Well a supercharger or N02 injection could do the job too but that’s another story.

However time and time again people forget the most important parts when tuning cars. I’m talking about safety and racing safety gear. I do see that people buy racing seats and that’s good. But most of the time they don’t buy racing seats because of the added safety. It’s because they think racing seats look good. And what about things like auto racing helmets that keeps your head intact. Most of the time people come to the track without real racing helmets and if it’s street racing that’s taking place, no one seems to bother wearing any kind of racing helmets at all.

I do understand that people feel protected inside their cars and they don’t think they need roll cages and in some cases opt for roll bars instead but you really need to think about this.

Some of the racing safety gear you should look at are the following:
racing suit
racing shoes
racing helmets
racing gloves

This would be the minimum for my liking if your going on a trackday or similar race day event with your tuned car.

In case you don’t have a fuel cell in your car and there is a chance of fire or fuel leak then you should consider racing fire suits also because these will save your life.

Fire is not to be taken lightly. If you have a good fuel system in place to feed your engine and anyone who are looking for power is going to have that. Then you need to understand that at any given time those racing fuel pumps are pumping 2 gallons of fuel every minute. And if you get a leak and have an accident you are in real trouble if the power to the pumps are not cut right away.

So having the right racing safety gear to protect you is always a good choice. Today’s car are much safer than the ones years ago, but you need to understand that when we double and triple the amount of power and turn our 100mph car into a 200mph fire spitting monster of a car you really, really should spend some time and pick out some racing safety gear also.