Monday, February 7, 2011

Garrett GT12 - GT1241 - 130 HP



The GT12 have been the smallest of the small frame Garrett GT turbochargers until late 2012 when Garrett came out with it's currently smallest GT06 turbocharger the Garrett GT0632SZ

Unlike the GT06 that can give a maximum of 80 hp, the GT12 will give you at max 130 HP. It will work well down to 50 HP and that makes it perfect for small engines like ATV's, motorbikes or other engines. 

Recommended displacement from Garrett for this turbo is at a minimum 400cc and at most 1200cc.
But I see videos of people turbocharging their lawn mowers, mopeds and so on with this turbo also.

Model: 756068-1
CHRA: 757864-1

Bearing: Journal 
Cooling: Oil & Water
Compressor
Inducer: 29 mm 
Exducer: 41 mm 
Trim: 50 
A/R 0.33

Turbine
Wheel: 35.5 mm 
Trim: 72 
A/R: 0.43
Wastegated

You can see on the compressor map above how this turbo works. The pressure ratio is an absolute pressure so that means you have the pressure we live in 1 bar + the pressure the turbo supplies to the engine. 

So to read the pressure ratio above you get 1 bar boost pressure from the turbo where it says 2 in the middle of the compressor map. And you can see that the turbo is most effective at around 0.7 - 1 bar boost pressure. However you can force the turbo up to 1.5 bar if you want but it wont give you any extra air flow / horsepower


Above you have all the measurements in MM for the Garrett GT12 turbo. Click to get a bigger picture.

The GT12 thread size for the water is M12 x 1.50
And the oil inlet and outlet thread size are M6x1.0


TITLE
Garrett GT12 Turbo Compressor Wheel

APPLICATION
Suitable for Garrett GT12 Turbochargers

MATERIAL
Aluminum Alloy

DIAMETER (A/C)
22.56 mm / 38.1 mm

HUB LENGTH (D)
29 mm

TIP WIDTH (B)
11.6-8.73 mm

SHAFT SIZE (E)
4.11 mm

BOTTOM
Superback

BLADES
6/6


TITLE
Garrett GT12 Turbo Turbine Wheel

OE NO
434927-0002

APPLICATION
Suitable for Garrett GT1238S Turbochargers

MATERIAL
Inconel

DIAMETER (A/B)
28.4 mm / 35.5 mm

TIP HEIGHT (C)
4.11 mm

JOURNAL BEARING (D)
6 mm

COMP. WHEEL BORE (E)
4.08 mm

BLADES
12

Vehicles that use the Garrett GT12 family turbocharger



Garrett GT123
TurbochargerMarkModelYearEngineH.p.Family TurboTurbo CodeO.E.M Turbo Code
GarrettSmartSmart 0.6L1999M160
(0.6)
55-GT123708116-000116009603993K
GarrettSmartSmart 0.6L1999M160
(0.6)
55-GT123454197-0001-3K
GarrettSmartSmart 0.6L1999M160
(0.6)
55-GT123708837-000116009604993K
GarrettSmartSmart 0.6L2001M160
(0.6)
55-GT123712290-000116009605993K
TurbochargerMarkModelYearEngineH.p.Family TurboTurbo CodeO.E.M Turbo Code




Garrett GT1238S
TurbochargerMarkModelYearEngineH.p.Family TurboTurbo CodeO.E.M Turbo Code
GarrettHondaBAMOS2006-
(0.7)
64DGT1238STBDTBD3K
GarrettMercedes-BenzFor Two 45kW2002M160 45kW
(0.6)
0DGT1238S727211-0001A 160 096 09 993K
GarrettMercedes-BenzSmart1999M160
(0.6)
54BGT1238S454197-0002A16009601993K
GarrettMercedes-BenzSmart36179M160
(0.6)
54BGT1238S708116-0001A16009603993K
GarrettMercedes-BenzSmart-M160
(0.6)
0BGT1238S724961-0001A16009606993K
GarrettMercedes-BenzSmart37408M160
(0.6)
0BGT1238S724961-0002A16009606993K
GarrettMercedes-BenzSmart2003M160-1
(0.7)
82BGT1238S727238-0001A16009610993K
GarrettMercedes-BenzSmart MCC1998-M160R3
(0.6)
54BGT1238S454197-0001A16009601993K
GarrettMercedes-BenzSmart MCC1998-M160R3
(0.6)
54BGT1238S454197-0003A16009602993K
GarrettMercedes-BenzSmart MCC1998-M160R3
(0.6)
54BGT1238S704487-0001A16009603993K
GarrettMercedes-BenzSmart MCC1999-M160R3
(0.6)
54BGT1238S708837-0001A16009604993K
GarrettMercedes-BenzSmart MCC1999-M160R3
(0.6)
54BGT1238S712290-0001A16009605993K
GarrettMercedes-BenzSmart MCC1999-M160R3
(0.6)
54BGT1238S724808-0001A16009606993K
GarrettSmartSMART 0.61999M160
(0.6)
54-GT1238S454197-0002A16009601993K
GarrettSmartSMART 0.61999M160
(0.6)
54-GT1238S454197-0003A16009602993K
GarrettSmartSMART 0.6/31999M160
(0.6)
54-GT1238S454197-0002A16009601993K
GarrettSmartSMART 0.6/31999M160
(0.6)
54-GT1238S454197-0001A16009601993K
GarrettSmartSMART 0.6/31999M160
(0.6)
54-GT1238S708116-0001A16009603993K
GarrettSmartSMART 0.6/31999M160
(0.6)
54-GT1238S454197-0003A16009602993K
GarrettSmartSMART 0.6/31999M160
(0.6)
54-GT1238S708837-0001A16009604993K
GarrettSmartSMART 0.6/31999M160
(0.6)
54-GT1238S704487-0001A16009603993K
GarrettSmartSMART 0.62000M160
(0.6)
54-GT1238S712290-0001A16009605993K
GarrettSmartSMART 0.6/32000M160
(0.6)
54-GT1238S712290-0001A16009605993K
GarrettSmartSMART 0.6/32001M160
(0.6)
54-GT1238S724961-0001A16009606993K
GarrettSmartSMART 0.62002M160
(0.6)
54-GT1238S724808-0001A16009606993K
GarrettSmartSMART 0.62002M160
(0.6)
54-GT1238S724961-0002A16009606993K
GarrettSmartSMART 0.62002M160
(0.6)
54-GT1238S733717-0001-3K
GarrettSmartSMART 0.6/32002M160
(0.6)
54-GT1238S733717-0001-3K
GarrettSmartSMART 0.6/32002M160
(0.6)
54-GT1238S724808-0001A16009606993K
GarrettSmartSMART 0.6/32002M160
(0.6)
54-GT1238S724961-0002A16009606993K
GarrettSmartSMART 0.62003M160
(0.6)
54-GT1238S724961-0003A16009606993K
GarrettSmartSMART 0.6/32003M160
(0.6)
54-GT1238S724961-0003A16009606993K
GarrettSmartSMART ROADSTER 0.72003M160-1
(0.7)
82-GT1238S727238-0001A16009610993K
GarrettSmartSMART ROADSTER 0.7/32003M160-1
(0.7)
82-GT1238S727238-0001A16009610993K
TurbochargerMarkModelYearEngineH.p.Family TurboTurbo CodeO.E.M Turbo Code




Garrett GT124
TurbochargerMarkModelYearEngineH.p.Family TurboTurbo CodeO.E.M Turbo Code
GarrettVolkswagenGOLF T 1.0T2001EA111
(1.0)
100-GT124708001-0001361457013K
TurbochargerMarkModelYearEngineH.p.Family TurboTurbo CodeO.E.M Turbo Code




Garrett GT1241Z
TurbochargerMarkModelYearEngineH.p.Family TurboTurbo CodeO.E.M Turbo Code
GarrettVWGol2001EA111
(1.0)
101BGT1241Z708001-0001361457013K
GarrettVWGol2001EA111
(1.0)
101DGT1241Z756068-0001-3K
GarrettVWParati2001EA111
(1.0)
101BGT1241Z708001-0001361457013K
GarrettVWParati2001EA111
(1.0)
101DGT1241Z756068-0001-3K
GarrettVolkswagenGOL 1.0/42001-
(1.0)
100-GT1241Z708001-00010361457013K
GarrettVolkswagenPARATI 1.02001EA111
(1.0)
100-GT1241Z708001-00010361457013K
GarrettVolkswagenPARATI 1.0/42001EA111
(1.0)
100-GT1241Z708001-00010361457013K
TurbochargerMarkModelYearEngineH.p.Family TurboTurbo CodeO.E.M Turbo Code




Garrett GT128
TurbochargerMarkModelYearEngineH.p.Family TurboTurbo CodeO.E.M Turbo Code
GarrettSmartSmart 0.6L1999M160
(0.6)
55-GT128704487-000116009603993K
TurbochargerMarkModelYearEngineH.p.Family TurboTurbo CodeO.E.M Turbo Code




Garrett GT12SM
TurbochargerMarkModelYearEngineH.p.Family TurboTurbo CodeO.E.M Turbo Code
GarrettMercedes-BenzBrabus Roadster 74kW2004M160 74 kW
(0.6)
101DGT12SM743317-0001A 160 096 11 993K
TurbochargerMarkModelYearEngineH.p.Family TurboTurbo CodeO.E.M Turbo Code




I also have more technical pages for you that will come in handy. They will be of great help when looking at compressor maps Use the conversion tools And you will be able to calculate airflow, pressure and HP figures for the turbocharger you are interested in.

12 comments:

Smart Madness said...

Hi there, I've bought my first Smart Fortwo 0.7 - Looking to build a better motor up to 150-200hp... Will a GT15 compressor body bolt onto a GT12 turbine body? I'm looking for more air volume without increased lag. Thanks really enjoy your blog!

JD said...

Hello Smart Madness, well unfortunately I don't think you would be able to fit a GT15 to the Smart Fourtwo turbine housing. Maybe you could machine the housing to get the GT15 body to fit the Fortwo housing but it would involve some tricky setup to even get it machined to begin with if even possible. The GT15 turbine wheel is around 42.2 mm and the GT1238 turbine is around 28.4 mm.

Also if you would manage to fit a GT15 compressor housing and wheel to the GT12 turbo you could probably run into some surge issues because the GT15 is a much bigger turbo and it would be a bit of a mismatch.

The best way to get more power would be to have a custom turbo manifold made similar to this one from rt-dynamics.com. That way you have to option to get a bigger turbo fitted, because a GT12 will not make the numbers you are after.

https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_kcYgsbBDSc/W7vf1E92QEI/AAAAAAAAEUw/5ibHOYtnqSgAfqYiyHWcj8LOxjQd704UACLcBGAs/s1600/Smart%2BFortwo%2B451%2BCustom%2BAftermarket%2BStainless%2BTurbo%2BExhaust%2BManifold.jpg

If you get a GT1241 turbocharger fitted and push around 26 psi or around 1.8 bar boost you might get around 100hp from the stock Smart engine.

But if you really want 150hp then you need to port the cylinder head and get some better camshafts, you need the engine without turbo to be able to produce around 55hp alone. If you get the GT2052 turbocharger you would be able to get to 150hp with the same boost pressures.

But at that this point you will not have the fast spooling engine you are after.

Smart Madness said...

Thanks JD... That's great information!! Machining would not be any problem... My objective is to reduce lag by maintaining the GT12 compressor but increase volume allowing for higher engine rpm (10,000-12,000) but maintain usable revs (2000 up)... So with machining out of the way do you think this strategy would accomplish my end goal?

Smart Madness said...

Sorry, keeping the GT12 turbine to drive the GT15 compressor...

JD said...

Well sure it can be done, the GT12 turbine should fit the GT15 compressor the way you want (it might need some machining done to get some parts fitted). However my main issue with the GT12 turbine is it is a very small turbine and the ports are also very small on the turbine manifold. So it will become a restriction on how much power the setup can make in the end (if you don't run into surge issues before that).

If you can tune the engine to produce around 60hp without a turbo and you get the GT15 compressor fitted you would be looking at around 150hp with 22 psi or 1.5 bar boost pressure. But if the exhaust back pressure is too high due to the small GT12 turbine the engine might struggle to get to 130hp.

If you look at the GT1544 and GT1548 you can see the difference in compressor wheel size and turbine wheel size and how it affects how much air the turbos are able to flow vs the GT12 turbo.


Smart Madness said...

Thanks again JD. I guess its time to have a play!!. My numbers tell me I need 180hp and 180ft/lbs torque to achieve my performance goal. Will let you know what happens... Much appreciated

Unknown said...

Hi JD
Love your work - so much great info.
I have been scouring the net looking for the specs on a turbo i have - its from a Peugeot (part number 9810681380C) and translates to a GT1341. any chance that you might have some info on this? looking at fitting it to a motorbike.

JD said...

Hello, I think the correct one is called NGT1341Z made by Honeywell Garrett. It's found on the 110hp Peugeot 1.2L 308 MK2 and FIAT Viaggio, Bravo, Ottimo 1.4 T-Jet engines making 150hp. I don't know the inducer size on this turbo, but looking at the compressor wheel and turbine wheels the NGT1341Z have a 5 blade compressor vs the GT1241 that have the 6 blade design. And on the turbine wheel it's a 10 blade on the GT1341Z vs 12 blades on the GT1241.

In short this means the NGT1341Z does flow more air and support more power over the GT1241 turbo, and we can confirm this by looking at the 1.4 liter Fiat engines producing 150hp with this turbocharger. Considering this it might be closer in size to the GT15 turbochargers.

Smart Madness said...

JD, what about a variable vane turbo, are there small form units available that might be suitable?

Smart Madness said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
JD said...

Hello Smart, one turbocharger you could consider would be the Garrett VNT15 turbos found on a number of Audi, Golf, Jetta VW tdi engines. I can't say how much difference in spool the variable vane turbine would be on your engine. But if you manage to tune your engine to around 60hp without turbo and use the Garrett VNT-15 turbo with 1.5bar / 22psi boost pressure, you could get around 150hp with that turbocharger.

To get a solid 180hp you would need to tune your engine closer to 70hp and run 1.6bar / 23psi boost for 180hp.


Smart Madness said...

Ok, that sounds like a more promising plan JD... I've stripped down an engine and turbo to study and measure. I've got enough room to take it to just under 900cc and throw a set of forged rods and pistons in and give the head bigger valves and some porting... I used to be able to get 110hp reliably from 875cc without any boosting, so 70hp from a smart engine shouldn't be a problem... Let's see where it all goes; thanks for the feedback so far, big help

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Folks don't forget about racing safety gear when buying auto racing parts

I have been tuning engines for a long time and with that experience I tend to look a bit more at how other people tune their cars and bikes than anyone else. Now this is not true for everyone, but most of you will recognize yourself at some level.

About 25 years ago the level of tuning an ordinary street car would ever see was at most 30% increase in power. (Not true for every car out there, but I'm talking ordinary street cars here)

So if you had an Ford, Volvo or BMW the amount of power you could get would have been in the 150hp range and in some extreme cases 250hp. At this point this was the "limit" of ordinary naturally aspirated engines at that time. Yes there was a lot of racing going on at that time, and some of these race engines did get put into street cars and power levels would have been 300+ hp. But the amount of maintenance these race engines required and the cost to keep them running were too much for most people.

Back then you could not just go into a racing store and buy yourself a set of forged pistons and connecting rods. Let alone camshafts and valves to build your race engine.

With the introduction of turbochargers however the power suddenly increased to levels that are still uncommon in today’s cars. At the beginning people where not really sure how to tune turbo engines and intercoolers where something that most people had never heard of. Silicone hoses where did you get that?

You would have to know someone in the maintenence department that did service on trucks or busses that had turbocharged Diesel engines at the time to buy the simple things like, clamps, hoses, gaskets, oil lines etc. Even something like an external Wastegate that are availiable almost everywhere now today you could not get your hands on. And something like real drag tires where not that common either.

But as time passed by, engine tuners got their hands on more parts, most that had the machines and tools started to make their own intercoolers, wastegates and all the parts that were hard to get and the knowledge and the tuning business took of.

Now it still took some time before engine management systems and electric fuel injection where you could really start to extract power out of engines became common and figure out how to tune the software to make that work. To start if you found someone who could tune these you would have to fork out serious doe to get everything working. Well you still might have to do that today, and serious race teams do spend alot of money to get the electrical side working right. Today there are so many more things you can do with a powerful ECU, like traction control, different boost pressures for low and high gears, launch control, shiftcut etc.. This list is very long.

But before all that came chip tuning and fuel injected turbo engines. What was unheard of just 20 years ago would now become a reality for anyone with a few minutes of tuning. Some of you might know the story of the Ford RS Cosworth, Nissan Skyline, Audi S1 Quattro, Lancia S4 to name a few and other icons of the late 1980 and early 1990. The turbo engines back then would give you 200hp and that is still today 25 years on about the same power level you would get from a new car. However today this is a common power figure for a station wagon. And back in the 80s only a few racing breed turbo engines would give you that.

But with a few changes to the ECU with chip tuning and some larger fuel injectors all that was needed then was to turn up the boost pressure and 350hp where unleashed. The only real limit here was only how much air the standard turbocharger could supply.

Sure there where different levels of basic tuning you could do but the effect was the same, more power.

With more and more tuner friendly cars coming out over the years the power figures are still holding almost the same. Just until recently where the powerfigures have really started to go up and beyond what was thought possible only a few years ago..

But what have really changed today is the huge amount of DIY tuners out there. What engine tuners did 25 years ago have now entered the garage and racing parts have now become widely available to anyone. From the cheap Chinese made turbo exhaust manifolds to wastegates and almost every tuning part you can think of to the pure racing parts like forged pistons and engine management systems on sale that anyone can buy.

So what has happened is anyone with a little background in mechanics can now build their own race engine. Power levels have just gone up and up and up.. It’s not uncommon to see street cars today with 500hp and then there are the ones who have gone even higher, breaking the 1000hp barrier.

The one thing that all these engines have in common to achieve such power levels are of course the turbocharger. Without the turbo it would not have been possible. Well a supercharger or N02 injection could do the job too but that’s another story.

However time and time again people forget the most important parts when tuning cars. I’m talking about safety and racing safety gear. I do see that people buy racing seats and that’s good. But most of the time they don’t buy racing seats because of the added safety. It’s because they think racing seats look good. And what about things like auto racing helmets that keeps your head intact. Most of the time people come to the track without real racing helmets and if it’s street racing that’s taking place, no one seems to bother wearing any kind of racing helmets at all.

I do understand that people feel protected inside their cars and they don’t think they need roll cages and in some cases opt for roll bars instead but you really need to think about this.

Some of the racing safety gear you should look at are the following:
racing suit
racing shoes
racing helmets
racing gloves

This would be the minimum for my liking if your going on a trackday or similar race day event with your tuned car.

In case you don’t have a fuel cell in your car and there is a chance of fire or fuel leak then you should consider racing fire suits also because these will save your life.

Fire is not to be taken lightly. If you have a good fuel system in place to feed your engine and anyone who are looking for power is going to have that. Then you need to understand that at any given time those racing fuel pumps are pumping 2 gallons of fuel every minute. And if you get a leak and have an accident you are in real trouble if the power to the pumps are not cut right away.

So having the right racing safety gear to protect you is always a good choice. Today’s car are much safer than the ones years ago, but you need to understand that when we double and triple the amount of power and turn our 100mph car into a 200mph fire spitting monster of a car you really, really should spend some time and pick out some racing safety gear also.